The symphony of Shiki restaurant – Vienna

Conductor, violinist and now restaurateur extraordinaire, Joji Hattori has brought something new to the gastronomic scene. Have you heard of Japanese-Austrian fusion?

In the heart of culture city, a few little steps away from the iconic opera & other innumerable palaces stand this polished multi-leveled, multi-faceted establishment. The dark and refined décor invites the honorable guest to not only a culinary experience but also a sensory delight for all the senses. Joji Hattori’s elegant Japanese restaurant is located at the historic heart of Vienna and is divided into a fine-dining section and a brasserie area. This means you have a choice of either a full tasting menu at the exclusive velvet & living material covered private dining room, or just have a treat at the sushi bar in the front of the house.

We had the chance to have a very special place. The chef’s table, with a display window revealing the detailed and turmoil action of the kitchen, is normally where you’ll find a peaceful Mr. Hattori sipping on a glass of wine as if he were the conductor of all of this spectacle. The whole evening was a harmonious orchestra, a symphony of taste, color & smiles.

We chose to take the omakase menu. Omakase is the expression for “I leave it to you”. Such a creative expression seemed fitted for a first visit and especially for a chef’s table evening. Smiles, nods and polite greetings were exchanged with the kitchen staff as our choice was revealed to them. I felt they were glad. We definitely were. The fellowship & solidarity that happened in this closed space for the whole evening was touching to say the least.

A quick look the rest of the menu revealed probably every option possible, a surprising and extremely vast array of choices. I don’t remember ever visiting some place where kobe beef meets bento boxes & Chilean sea bass is neighbor to fresh wasabi roots; where you can get sushi as well as grilled dishes and European fanciest ingredients. The delicacies combine into contemporary taste and surprising flavors.  Nothing close to traditional Japanese cuisine, which would probably concentrate on only one type of dish, Shiki stands away from cliché.

When we say everything’s in the details, Shiki goes even further. Nothing is left unattended, uncared for, from their exclusive light weight, fresh-wood, chemical-free chopsticks to their extensive sake collection destined for pairings.

Salmon starter course with  cucumber salad, lotus roots, sesame and nori seaweed paired perfectly with a local Burgenland Weissburgnder. The freshness and purity of both with just a hint of richness from the fish as well as from the wine. This was genius.

All your sushi needs and expectations to be met. Whether you want sashimi, nigiri or maki, only the best ingredient and craftsmanship is to be expected, freshly grated wasabi root as needed.

The wine list include references from all over the world. This Sea Bass was so delicate but flavorful at the same time. The pairing with the fransola Sauvignon Blanc which is quite restrictive on the green aspect yet vibrant acted like a supporter to the dish.


The last but not least, berry variation with miso ice cream was one of the most delicate and complex dessert I have tasted. The combination with the various berries would just bring out a new flavors for each bite.

A big thank you goes to Joji Hattori and his amazing team for their hospitality and for allowing me to experience the aesthetics, passion, and dedication that go into creating culinary poetry. When something’s so right and beautiful, it always comes from the most amazing & inspiring people.


Château de Maligny

There are these kind of estates that hide a story so rich that it is impossible to tell it all. When every aspect of an estate is bound by a multitude of historical and geographical links. When every aspect of the terroir makes sense in the precise and distinct location, this is the ideal profile for creating great wines.

Château de Maligny is part of Chablis in the same way that Chablis is anchored in the Château de Maligny. It is from the power of this link, so distinctive, that it is possible to see the true face of Chablis. A fragmented Chablis with a unique terroir precision. Chablis is distinguished not only by its recognizable stylistic ability, but also by its subtle diversity. This isolated region, apparently apart, often pounded by frost and hail, varying from one vintage to the next and from one plot to another, is of a complexity that is not always given to it.

I was delighted to share this tasting with Mr. Jean Paul Durup, great winemaker and especially great speaker who has demonstrated us this endearing side of the appellation.

The Durup Family started back in 1560 but wasn’t always situated in Maligny. Jean Paul’s grandfather was originally from villy and was the first of his family to cross the Serein River and establish in Maligny with his grand-mother. At that time the vineyard was quite small and it wasn’t until Durup Père started to take interest in the different parcels that the estate truly developed. He was called the vines fool as he was looking at the places that were impossible to work. The most abrupt slopes and arduous vineyards. The Maligny properties cover 170 hectares over the commune of Maligny and other parts of Chablis. It is now the largest estate in the appellation. The estate ferments and matures their wines in stainless steel without the use of wood to keep the historic & organoleptic Chablis identity.

The latest vintages in Chablis were catastrophic. 2015 was a close one, most producer were lucky enough to harvest before the hail, but others like Château de Maligny were hit only 3 days before their scheduled harvest. 2016 was strongly affected by frost and hail that destroyed a huge part of the yield. 2017 was as cold if not more, the frost came right when it shouldn’t and buds couldn’t keep up with it. On the other hand, 2018 is the light at the end of the tunnel, an immensely rich and textured vintage that is said to be magical & more than welcomed financially for the estates. After all, our world doesn’t deserve a Chablis shortage, ever. The tough alone is dreadful. There’s always protection options like sprinklers or ‘Bougies’ that you light up between the vines, but as Mr. Durup says : “We don’t worry about the protected parcels, but the ones that aren’t.” Chablis is a delicate matter.

Château de maligny, Petit Chablis, 2017

Château de Maligny Petit Chablis is unusual in style and in provenance. The very ripe fruit character it showcase comes from parcels that are close to or alongside some Premier cru and Grand cru vineyards. One spécifique parcel is identical to Blanchot in terms of soil and exposition. Another in Maligny has an outstanding pinpoint south orientation. This makes an aromatic wine with this rather tasty stony flavor. Petit Chablis is often taken as pejorative, but it should be synonymous of affective & easy peasy. The role of the Petit Chablis is just for fun.

Château de maligny, La vigne de la reine, 2017

This plot is located in a very narrow valley (also called Mignotte valley) in which a particular micro-climate prevails. The sun’s rays hit the poor stony ground of the valley, which stores this heat to restore it to the bunches. This Chablis is floral and mineral altogether with a pure vibrancy and rich flavors. Flexible & elegant.

Château de maligny, Marche du Roi, 2017

La Marche du Roi is a historic site located between the Premiers Crus Montée de Tonerre and Mont de Milieu. Formerly, this coast was the border of the Kingdom of France vis-a-vis the Duchy of Burgundy from where the name which was given to him The March of the King. The 45% slope and poor soils gives it richness & precision. The fruitiness is cross-grained, textured and stressed. The wine is quite balanced etween the overwhelming minerality, acidity and tart green almonds feeling.

Château de maligny, Carré de césar, 2017

Carré de césar is the most typical and intense in terms of minerality with distinctive gun-flint. Situated close to La vigne de la reine but with a slope that is softer, these are the closest vines to the estate with a thigh style and a narrative frame on citrus fruits. This is schoolbook Chablis, a representative expression.

Château de maligny, Vieilles Vignes, 2017

By old vines, they mean true old vines planted back in 1905 (one of the two oldest in Chablis), 1926 & 1943. They had older vines from 1895 before, but the disastrous frost of 1985 made them crack with no hope of salvation along with a good amount of the vineyards as well. It’s a generous wine, fleshy with ripe exotic fruits and an intense aromatic aspect. The honeyed and rich palate is lifted up by freshness & finesse. It’s unique in its concentrated demonstration.

Château de maligny, Chablis Premier cru Fourchaume, 2017

Fourchaume is probably the most prestigious and recognized premier cru especially because it’s the largest in scale. The vines destined for it are located in Lieux-dits such as l’Ardillier, La Grande Côte, Bois Séguin and l’Homme Mort. It’s absolutely delicate & Floral as we would expect for a Fourchaume. It’s soft & lighthearted. All the taste comes from the vibrant, pithy acidity and the straightforward structure.

Château de maligny, Chablis premier cru L’Homme Mort, 2017

The Chablis Premier Cru L’homme Mort is one of the eight Lieux-dits that make up the Fourchaume climate. Just to complicate things, within the 17 Premier cru considered “flagship Premier Cru” there are 23 other Lieux-dits or climats that you can find on labels. L’homme Mort is one of them. This wine showcase added intensity and added wet rock characteristic compared to the other Fourchaume. It has the distinguished Chablisienne intensity & power with a nervous backbone.

Château de maligny, Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey, 2017

Vau de Vey is definitely not the most famous, but still deserves attention. It was extremely prestigious pre-phylloxera but was then left to abandon because it’s arduous slope. It has a citrus fruit-forward approach. I’d say it’s the only climat which is as much about grapefruit. The palate has a frivolous acidity, almost untamed but extremely pleasing. It is tasty, with finesse and meekness, tightly textured with and edgy finish.

Château de maligny, Chablis premier cru Montée de Tonerre, 2017

The only flaw of Montée de Tonerre from Mr. Durup point of view is that they only have 2 ha. It’s the only cru that can bring this unique iodine character to Chablis. It’s an intense and dramatic expression with a direct, masculine palate and an imposing mouthfeel. We have the sour citrus fruit, we have the wet stone character but with an outspoken style.


Nicolas Feuillatte’s new Terroir Premier Cru and exclusive label

As the number one sold Champagne in France, third in the world, no wonder you know exactly what I’m talking about. The iconic blue labeled champagne that you’ve probably tried at least once before. What you may not know is that this champagne house is the ultimate cooperative success story. Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, or should I say the CV-CNF (Centre vinicole – Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte) is the oldest and biggest cooperative in Champagne producing over 19 million bottles a year. It is said that one in every three grape growers provides for Feuillatte, that’s about 4500 adhering winemakers and access to more than 2,250 hectares of all aspects of the unique Champagne vineyard. This is huge.

The very brand was started out of audacity and ambition, when Nicolas Feuillatte, a wealthy Parisian coffee importer, and Henri Macquart,founder of the centre vinicole de la Champagne after the excessive grape harvest of 1970, joined forces. For Feuillatte, his adventure had started with his brother in Ardre Valley near Reims, to create their own brand in order to please and spoil their personal friends. They rapidly understood that their friends’ thirst was not so easily quenchable. Things have grown ever since. After he passed away in 2014, the brand was producing as much as 200 000 bottles.

The newest cuvée, Terroir Premier Cru has been announced recently at Prowein. Destined only to international markets, including Canada, is sourced from Premier Crus only, and is said to be the ultimate demonstration of the infinite palette of vineyards at the houses disposal.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Reserve Exclusive Brut

This Champagne represents 80% of the production. It’s the most recognized and the most typical also. It’s simple and drinkable, yet with an advanced maturity in terms of aromas, lemon confit and yellow apples. The first sip has a strong and wild onset, but afterwards, the acidity takes over and balance is found.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Rosé Sakura Reserve Exclusive

Sakura is the Japanese word given to Japanese cherry trees and their flowers. Their flowering is called Hanami and marks the beginning of Spring, while offering absolutely superb landscapes. This limited edition will be available at the start of May, hopefully with some spring weather too. This Champagne,  composed of 10% chardonnay, for elegance and finesse, 45% pinot noir for the structure and 45% Meunier for the fruitiness and suppleness.

A very dark and dense pink, this crispy rosé is based on a structured and controlled bitterness with a dark fruitiness of ripe wild berries and cranberries. It’s a solid and firm rosé with a very lively and tasteful style.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Blanc de Blancs 2012

This Blanc de Blancs is so fresh and elegant, cloudy and aerial, especially compared to 2008 that was marked by more development. The overall feel is pure delicacy with light aromatic aspects, a lovely tension and heavy cracker saltiness. The finale ends on a nutty note, but still as vivid and pure as the very start.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Terroir Premier Cru

This new exclusive Cuvée is made from exclusively premier Cru grapes from every part of Champagne, every style and distinctive character. Guillaume Roffiaen, chief Winemaker, presented it as adaptable. He even called it the fearless cuvée, because they tested it with unbelievable pairings and it would always work. The slight and sweet spices on the nose brings some sort of unity yet with a classy style. On the palate, it’s a mix of the cuddle of Meunier, a duality of delicate and robust Pinot Noirs and the framing elegance of Chardonnay. The structure is pure minerality and tension with a rounding texture.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Palme d’Or 2006

Sourced only from Grand Cru vineyards, the Palme d’Or was meant to bring a maximum of intensity. In a search of aromatic richness and the limestone edge, Nicolas Feuillatte makes Champagne of strong and bold character. There’s a maturity, a vinous aspect, a strong bitterness similar to what you find in ground cherries as well as hints of yogurt and extent in every aspect.

Nicolas Feuillatte nous a préparé une toute nouvelle cuvée : Terroir Premier cru, et même une cuvée limitée.

En tant que Champagne le plus vendu en France, le troisième au monde, il n’est pas étonnant que vous sachiez exactement de quoi je parle. Le champagne emblématique de couleur bleue que vous avez probablement déjà essayé au moins une fois. Ce que vous ignorez peut-être, c’est que cette maison de champagne est l’histoire ultime d’un succès coopératif. Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, ou devrais-je dire le CV-CNF (Centre vinicole – Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte) est la plus ancienne et la plus grande coopérative de Champagne produisant plus de 19 millions de bouteilles par an. Il est dit qu’un viticulteur sur trois fournit Feuillatte, ce qui représente environ 4 500 viticulteurs et donne accès à plus de 2 250 hectares de tous les aspects de l’unique vignoble Champenois. C’est énorme.

La marque a été créée par audace et ambition lorsque Nicolas Feuillatte, un riche importateur de café parisien, et Henri Macquart, fondateur du centre vinicole de la Champagne après les vendanges excessives de 1970 se sont unis. Pour Feuillatte, son aventure avait commencé avec son frère à Ardre près de Reims, pour créer leur propre marque afin de faire plaisir et gâter leurs amis personnels. Ils ont rapidement compris que la soif de leurs amis n’était pas aussi facile à assouvir. Les choses ont grandi depuis. Après son décès en 2014, la marque produisait jusqu’à 200 000 bouteilles.

La nouvelle cuvée, Terroir Premier Cru, a été annoncée récemment à Prowein. Destinés uniquement aux marchés internationaux, y compris au Canada, la provenance est uniquement sur Premier Crus et il devra  être la démonstration ultime de la palette infinie de vignobles à la disposition de la maison.


Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Reserve Exclusive Brut

Ce champagne représente 80% de la production. C’est le plus reconnu et le plus typique aussi. C’est simple et buvable, mais avec une maturité avancée en termes d’arômes, de citron confit et de pomme jaune. La première gorgée a un début fort et sauvage, mais ensuite, l’acidité prend le dessus et l’équilibre est trouvé.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Rosé Sakura Reserve Exclusive

Sakura est le mot japonais donné aux cerisiers japonais et à leurs fleurs. Leur floraison s’appelle Hanami et marque le début du printemps, tout en offrant des paysages absolument superbes. Cette édition limitée sera disponible au début du mois de mai, avec une météo printanière espérons-le. Ce Champagne, composé à 10% de chardonnay, pour l’élégance et la finesse, à 45% de pinot noir pour la structure et à 45% de Meunier pour le fruité et la souplesse.

Un rose très foncé et dense, ce rosé croustillant repose sur une amertume structurée et contrôlée avec un fruité sombre de baies sauvages et de canneberges mûres. C’est un rosé solide et ferme avec un style très vif et de bon goût.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Blanc de Blancs 2012

Ce Blanc de Blancs est si frais et élégant, nuageux et aérien, en particulier par rapport à 2008 qui fut marqué par plus de développement. La sensation générale est pure délicatesse avec des aspects aromatiques légers, une belle tension et un gros salé. La finale se termine sur une note de noisette, mais toujours aussi vive et pure qu’au tout début.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Premier Cru Terroir

Cette nouvelle cuvée exclusive est élaborée exclusivement à partir de raisins de premier choix issus de toutes les parties de la Champagne, de tous les styles et de tous les caractères. Guillaume Roffiaen, chef vinificateur, l’a présenté comme adaptable. Il l’a même appelée la cuvée « même pas peur », car ils l’ont testée avec des accords tous plus  incroyables que les autres avec toujours de belles surprises. Les épices légères et douces sur le nez apporte une sorte d’unité mais avec un style élégant. En bouche, c’est un mélange de caresse de Meunier, d’une dualité de Pinot Noirs délicats et robustes et de l’élégance cadrant du Chardonnay. La structure est pure minéralité et tension avec une texture arrondie.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte – Palme d’Or 2006

Provenant uniquement de vignobles Grand Cru, la Palme d’Or était censée apporter un maximum d’intensité. À la recherche de la richesse aromatique et du côté calcaire, Nicolas Feuillatte fait de ce Champagne un caractère fort et audacieux. Il y a une maturité, un aspect vineux, une forte amertume semblable à ce que vous trouvez dans les cerises de terre, ainsi que des notes de yogourt et de l’ampleur dans tous les aspects.


Wines of Romania

Upcoming wine regions are all the rage now, but it’s hard to follow. It seems like yesterday when New York was the next big thing, now its quality is praised everywhere in the world. There’s just so much to discover and development in wine regions can really spur out of anywhere.

When it comes to Romanian wines, little is still known. Wine is definitely not the first thing that comes in your mind. We’re still very far from having a clear image of the viticulture there. In reality, it’s one of the biggest producing countries in the world. The difference is that they are also big drinkers that like to drink Romanian wines so there’s little exportation. High-volume production is recurrent from the producers but for the last ten years or so, investments and smaller producers have started to raise the quality.

There’s a few indigenous grape varietal, but they’re mostly concentrating on international varieties. Stephen Donelly, winemaker at Budureasca remembers, not too long ago, everything was Merlot. It would be a shame to forget the unpronounceable but very unique varietals, Romania has to offer.

Fetească : Makes extremely aromatic white wines. Similar to Muscat in many ways, it makes fresh wines with decent body that are very easy to love.

Tămȃioasă Romȃnească: One of the oldest varieties in the world. It’s a clone of the famous Muscat blanc à petits grains.

Fetească Neagra: This is the most widespread indigenous Romanian grape. It makes dry, full-bodied red wines that are not so autochthonous. The style is not so far to any Bordeaux blend. Black and red fruits are the main aromas, with a touch of spice and an affinity to oak that is usually used during its vinification.

Romamian specificities

Well, it’s definitely warm. But they have the benefits of the Carpathians Mountains. It gives shelter to the vines growing on its hills and have a moderating effect. They also have the Black sea as a moderating factor.

There’s 8 delimited wine regions: Transylvania Highlands, Moldavian Hill, Muntenia Hills, Oltenia Hills, Banat Hills, Dobrogea Hills, Crișana Maramureș Hills and The Danube Terraces that are spread across the whole country. However, you may want to seek out the 9 DOC to find higher level of quality.


The sweet white wines of Cotnari are probably those that got the highest reputation once, in an era when sweet wines of Eastern Europe were hype and popular with the aristocracy. At the opposite, Dealu Mare is the place to look for dry, structured reds.


One of the largest producer in the Dealu Mare appellation is Budureasca. It’s one of the most modern wineries in Romania with a massive 275 ha of vineyards. They produce an impressive range of products that is truly a reflexion of the countries production. They make everything from sweet wines to international red blends trying to mimic international standards, but also some great expression of the potential of Fetească Neagra. With the more than affordable prices, it’s worth trying, discovering and learning about.


Vins de Roumanie

Les régions viticoles émergeantes font fureur, mais c’est difficile de suivre tous les changements. On dirait que juste hier,  New York était la nouvelle découverte. Maintenant, sa qualité fait l’objet de louanges partout dans le monde. Il y a tellement de choses à découvrir et à développer et les régions viticoles peuvent vraiment sortir de n’importe où.

En ce qui concerne les vins roumains, on en sait encore peu. Le vin n’est certainement pas la première chose qui vous vient à l’esprit. Nous sommes encore très loin d’avoir une image claire de la viticulture. En réalité, c’est l’un des plus grands pays producteurs du monde. La différence est qu’ils sont également de grands buveurs qui aiment boire des vins roumains, de sorte qu’il n’exporte que très peu. La production à volume élevé est récurrente chez les producteurs, mais depuis une dizaine d’années environ, les investissements et les petits producteurs ont commencé à améliorer la qualité.

Il y a quelques cépages autochtones reconnus, mais ils se concentrent principalement sur les cépages internationaux. Stephen Donelly, viticulteur à Budureasca, se souvient qu’il n’y a pas si longtemps, il y avait du merlot partout. Il serait dommage d’oublier les cépages imprononçables mais tout à fait uniques que la Roumanie peut offrir.

Fetească: Donne des vins blancs extrêmement aromatiques. Semblable au Muscat à bien des égards, il donne des vins frais au corps décent et très faciles à aimer.

Tămȃioasă Romȃnească: Une des variétés les plus anciennes au monde. C’est un clone du célèbre Muscat blanc à petits grains.

Fetească Neagra: Il s’agit du cépage roumain autochtone le plus répandu. Il donne des vins rouges secs et corsés qui ne sont pas si autochtones. Le style n’est pas si loin d’un assemblage bordelais. Les fruits noirs et rouges sont les principaux arômes, avec une touche d’épice et une affinité avec le chêne qui est habituellement utilisé lors de la vinification.

Spécificités Roumaines

Eh bien, c’est vraiment chaud. Mais ils ont les avantages des montagnes des Carpates. Il abrite les vignes qui poussent sur ses collines et a un effet modérateur. Ils ont aussi la mer Noire comme facteur modérateur.

Il existe 8 régions viticoles délimitées: les hauts plateaux de Transylvanie, les collines moldaves, les collines de Muntenia, les collines d’Oltenia, les collines de Banat, les collines de Dobrogea, les collines de Crișana Maramureș et les terrasses du Danube réparties dans tout le pays. Cependant, vous voudrez peut-être consulter les 9 DOCs pour un niveau supérieur de qualité.


Les vins blancs liquoreux de Cotnari sont probablement ceux qui ont acquis la plus haute réputation à une époque où les vins doux de l’Europe de l’Est étaient très à la mode et populaires auprès de l’aristocratie. À l’opposé, Dealu Mare est l’endroit idéal pour rechercher des rouges secs et structurés.


Budureasca est l’un des plus gros producteurs de l’appellation Dealu Mare. C’est l’un des établissements vinicoles les plus modernes de Roumanie avec 275 hectares de vignes. Ils produisent une gamme impressionnante de produits qui reflète véritablement la production de leurs pays. Ils élaborent tout, des vins doux, des assemblages rouges internationaux essayant de copier les normes internationales, mais aussi une expression authentique du potentiel du Fetească Neagra. Avec des prix plus qu’abordables, il est intéressant d’essayer, de découvrir et d’apprendre.

Olga Miloiu : General manager of Budureasca


Grupo Pesquera – A legend of traditionalism that keeps on upholding.

Often called the master of tempranillo and closely related to the upbringing of Ribera del Duero, Alejandro Fernandez went against the usual in the 1970s and planted grapes instead of beets. At that time, we were not even close to thinking the region would ever get a DO. It was not until 10 years after he planted his very first vines that Ribera Del Duero got recognized as a Denominacion de Origen.

The wines’ focus is and has always been on the ageing of Tempranillo. Throughout all of the family-owned estates, the four bodegas that comprise Alejandro Fernández’s wine legacy, and constitute Grupo Pesquera (El Vinculo, Condado de Haza, Tinto Pesquera and Dehesa la Granja), share a passion for winemaking that has perfected over time

Alejairen, El Vinculo  2016

Have you ever had a 100% airen aged in American oak for 24 months? Me neither, it was a first. This very peculiar wine started back in 1999 when grupo Pesquera decided to work with some producers in La-Mancha. The grapes comes from about 30 ha of old vines, average of 90 years old. Airen is the most planted vine in the world but it’s usually destined for brandy, it’s sometimes called white donkey (Burra Blanca) because it can grow in any conditions. The result is very dry and oxidative. The oak notes and toasted coconut are overpowering and overly worked. It’s warm and neutral on the palate even similar to some grappa in terms of style.

Tinto Pesquera 2006

My first impression was clearly expressing some crushed nuts aromas. You know the little powder left when you chop nuts for a recipe. It’s interesting. The following aromas were mostly secondary & tertiary. The American oak classic coconut was powerful but also joined by bitter almonds and new-made leather. The palate is incredibly soft and made me think of how some older vintages used to develop. There’s a balance based on uniformity and taste.

Millenium 2009

The millennium is a very special cuvée. It’s made from a specific vineyard, only in the very best of vintages. Since its creation, it’s only been made 4 times. Characterized by dense fruits and concentration, even the dark, opaque color foreshadows what’s to come. The nose is exuberant, filled with coconut, oak, dark berries, even jam, some caramelized ognons and earthy tones. It’s a bit dolt and heavy with an imposing mouthfeel. Of course, there’s a lot of taste, a tad graceless, but definitely weighty.

Dehesa la Granja 2005

The wine shows a nice fruit-forward opening but it’s rapidly followed by hints of Brett. It’s warm and rustic with old barn-like character. Overall, the palate is unbalanced with a finale that close quickly on bitterness. There’s a body builded body/structure but a lack of taste to accommodate.

Dehesa la Granja 2011

2011 showcases a vibrant maturity of the berries. There’s matter, it’s tigh and tough but lacks some integration to let the wine show all of its quality & potential. It’s square and sturdy like a cement block for now.

Condado de Haza 2000

Beautiful brick color that is still brilliant. The nose is still pleasing and fresh with aromas of licorice, freshly cut aromatic herbs, spices & cumin. Even with its age, we have freshness, some fruitiness even if subtil.

Condado de Haza 2012

Completely closed & tigh. It’s a stressed little wine that needs to let things go. Relax, take some time to take care of yourself, maybe take a nice relaxing bath and we’ll see later what’s happening with you.

Condado de Haza 2016

This 2016 is filled with volume, a pure expression of tempranillo with decent maturity of the fruits, a savory counterpart and a detailed structure. It’s still tight but has a bright expression.


Grupo Pesquera – Une légende du traditionalisme qui perdure.

Souvent appelé le maître du tempranillo et étroitement lié à l’éducation de Ribera del Duero, Alejandro Fernandez s’est opposé à l’habitude dans les années 1970 et a planté des raisins à la place des betteraves. À ce moment-là, nous n’étions même pas près de penser que la région obtiendrait un jour le DO. Ce n’est que 10 ans après la plantation de ses toutes premières vignes que Ribera Del Duero a été reconnue comme une Denominacion de Origen.

L’attention des vins est et a toujours été sur le vieillissement de Tempranillo. Les quatre bodegas qui composent l’héritage viticole d’Alejandro Fernández et qui constituent le Grupo Pesquera (El Vinculo, Condado de Haza, Tinto Pesquera et Dehesa la Granja) se partagent une passion pour la vinification qui a fait ses preuves

Alejairen, El Vinculo 2016

Avez-vous déjà eu un airen 100% vieilli dans du chêne américain pendant 24 mois? Moi non plus, c’était une première. Ce vin très particulier a commencé en 1999 lorsque le groupe Pesquera a décidé de travailler avec des producteurs de La Mancha. Les raisins proviennent d’environ 30 ha de vieilles vignes, âgées en moyenne de 90 ans. Airen est la vigne la plus plantée au monde, mais elle est généralement destinée à l’eau de vie, parfois appelée âne blanc (Burra Blanca) car elle peut pousser dans toutes les conditions. Le résultat est très sec et oxydant. Les notes de chêne et de noix de coco grillée sont accablantes et trop travaillées. La bouche est chaude et neutre, voire similaire à la grappa en termes de style.

Tinto Pesquera 2006

Ma première impression exprimait clairement des arômes de noix broyés. Vous connaissez le peu de poudre qui reste lorsque vous hachez des noix pour une recette. C’est intéressant. Les arômes suivants étaient principalement secondaires et tertiaires. La noix de coco classique du chêne américain était puissante, mais elle était également rejointe par des amandes amères et du cuir neuf. La bouche est incroyablement douce et m’a fait penser à la façon dont se développaient certains millésimes plus anciens. Il existe un équilibre entre uniformité et goût.

Millénaire 2009

Le millénaire est une cuvée très spéciale. Il est fabriqué à partir d’un vignoble spécifique, dans les meilleurs millésimes. Depuis sa création, il n’a été fabriqué que 4 fois. Caractérisé par des fruits denses et une concentration, même la couleur sombre et opaque annonce ce qui va arriver. Le nez est exubérant, rempli de noix de coco, de chêne, de baies noires, voire de confiture, de quelques ognons caramélisés et de tons terreux. C’est un peu lourd et lourd avec une sensation en bouche imposante. Bien sûr, il y a beaucoup de goût, un peu gracieux, mais certainement pesant.

Dehesa la Granja 2005

Le vin montre une belle ouverture fruitée, mais il est rapidement suivi par des notes de Brett. Il fait chaud et rustique avec un caractère de vieille grange. Dans l’ensemble, la bouche est déséquilibrée avec une finale qui se ferme rapidement sur l’amertume. Il y a un corps construit / corps, mais un manque de goût pour accueillir.

Dehesa la Granja 2011

2011 met en valeur la maturité vibrante des baies. La matière est dure et difficile, mais il manque un peu d’intégration pour permettre au vin de montrer toute sa qualité et son potentiel. C’est carré et solide comme un bloc de ciment pour l’instant.

Condado de Haza 2000

Belle couleur de brique qui reste brillante. Le nez est toujours agréable et frais avec des arômes de réglisse, d’herbes aromatiques fraîchement coupées, d’épices et de cumin. Même avec son âge, nous avons de la fraîcheur, du fruité, même s’il est subtil.

Condado de Haza 2012

Complètement fermé et serré. C’est un petit vin stressé qui doit laisser les choses aller. Détendez-vous, prenez le temps de prendre soin de vous, prenez peut-être un bon bain relaxant et nous verrons plus tard ce qui vous arrive.

Condado de Haza 2016

Ce 2016 est rempli de volume, une expression pure de tempranillo avec une maturité décente des fruits, une contrepartie savoureuse et une structure détaillée. Il est encore serré mais a une expression brillante.