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Portes Ouvertes – Route des vins Brome-Missisquoi les 6 et 7 juillet 2019

Je me permets de faire un petit clin d’œil à ma région natale. Située à 40 minutes de Montréal, dans les Cantons-de-l’Est, Brome-Missisquoi est la région la plus active au niveau du développement de la viticulture au Québec. On y retrouve autant les plus grands pionniers que les petits nouveaux passionnés.

Le 6 et 7 juillet prochain se sera l’occasion de découvrir ou redécouvrir ces paysages parsemés de vergers, de vignes et de fermes lors des Portes Ouvertes dans les vignobles de La Route des vins Brome-Missisquoi. En tout, 18 Vignobles, ouvrent leurs portes de 10h à 17h, pour vous offrir des expériences uniques. Chaque vignoble propose entre deux et quatre dégustations gratuites, dans certains cas quelques produits du terroir local pour agrémenter le tout. En bonus, vous aurez probablement l’occasion de rencontrer les vignerons eux-mêmes lors de votre visite.

Voici la liste des vignobles participants et n’oublier pas de vous procurer votre Carnet de dégustation :

Domaine des Côtes d’Ardoise (Dunham)

Le domaine des Côtes d’ardoise est supposément le plus ancien vignoble encore en opération au Québec. Il fut créé en 1980 par Christian Barthomeuf. Jolis jardins, exposition de sculptures, mais surtout beaucoup de cailloux, de schiste et d’ardoise font de ce vignoble, un endroit prédestiné à la viticulture.

À essayer : le CidrO2, le nouveau cidre pétillant sec du domaine.

Le Château de Cartes(Dunham)

D’abord verger, ensuite transformé en vignoble et cidrerie, le château des Cartes a une petite production, mais une très grand dévouement envers leur produits.

À essayer : Blanc de noir. Ce terme normalement utilisé pour des vins pétillant désigne un vin Blanc élaboré de raisins noirs. Atypique et très expressif.

Le Vignoble du Ruisseau (Dunham)

le Vignoble du Ruisseau est un projet d’envergure avec un investissement colossal. Vous avez juste besoin d’un aperçu du domaine récemment ouvert au public (2016) pour comprendre à quel point le projet est ambitieux. Environ 40 hectares de vigne, Vinifera uniquement, entièrement contrôlé par des conduits géothermiques le long des vignes.

À essayer : Le Chardonnay 2016 vieilli en barriques provenant d’une tonnellerie Mercurey.

Léon Courville vigneron (Lac-Brome)

Alors que d’autres vignobles se vantent d’avoir un micro climat, M. Courville va plus loin en affirmant qu’il possède le seul, vrai micro climat au Québec. Avec son sol de cailloux et d’argile, sa légère pente et l’aspect modérateur du lac Brome, Léon Courville se distingue par son utilisation de St-Pépin, un hybride difficile mais délicat.

À Essayer : Muse 2016, mousseux fait de St-Pépin.

 

UNION LIBRE (Dunham)

Depuis 2010, Union Libre offre une gamme complète de Cidres, en passant par le cidre mousseux, le cidre de glace et bien sûr leur fameux cidre de feu.  Depuis que le gouvernement du Québec officialisa la catégorie cidre de feu en 2013, celui-ci deviendra leur produit vedette. Toutefois, il ne faut pas oublier que le domaine est aussi un vignoble avec une production de production de vins blancs secs à base de Seyval blanc, Vidal, Chardonnay, Riesling,  Pinot gris et Gewurztraminer.

À essayer : Cidre Houblonné

Val Caudalies (Dunham)

Val Caudalies a fait fureur en 2015 lorsqu’ils ont fabriqué le premier Vermouth Québécois.

À essayer : Vidal Blanc

Vignoble Clos Ste-Croix (Dunham)

Vous trouverez le Clos Ste-Croix en plein cœur du Village de Dunham, directement sur la rue principale. Le vignoble de seulement 3 hectares est planté depuis 1990.

À essayer : Le Vidal Village

Vignoble de l’Orpailleur (Dunham)

Le projet de 2 pionniers au Québec, Charles-Henri de Coussergues, Hervé Durand et leurs partenaires Pierre Rodrigue et Frank Furtado a pris de l’ampleur depuis ses débuts en 1982. L’Orpailleur est aujourd’hui l’un des plus grands et des plus connus au Québec .

À essayer : Quelques nouveaux produits : Un Cabernet Franc, Un Gewurztraminer et un Chardonnay.

Vignoble de la Bauge (Brigham)

Avant de se concentrer à la vigne, le domaine était tout d’abord un élevage de Sanglier. Encore aujourd’hui le vignoble offre aussi une visite de leur parc Animalier sur un sentier d’environ ½ Km bordés par de grandes clôtures où dans de grands enclos se côtoient des sangliers, emblème du vignoble, et plusieurs autres espèces comme; des Cerfs rouges de Nouvelle-Zélande, des Yaks du Tibet, des Émeus d’Australie, des Lamas de la Cordilière des Andes et plusieurs autres espèces d’un peu partout dans le monde.

Domaine du Ridge (Saint-Armand)

Vignoble La Belle Alliance (Shefford)

Vignoble Domaine Bresee (Sutton)

Vignoble Gagliano (Dunham)

Vignoble La Grenouille (Cowansville)

Vignoble l’Ardennais (Stanbridge East)

Vignoble La Mission (Brigham)

Vignoble Les Trois Clochers (Dunham)

Vignoble Bromont (Brigham)

Sur Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/laroutedesvinsbm/

Allow me to promote my native region. Located 40 minutes from Montreal in the Eastern Townships Brome-Missisquoi is the most active region in the development of viticulture in Quebec. This is where the greatest pioneers I allow myself to wink at my native region. Located 40 minutes from Montreal in the Eastern Townships Brome-Missisquoi is the most active region in the development of viticulture in Quebec. We find as much the greatest pioneers established themselves as well as many new enthusiasts.

July 6th and 7th will be the opportunity to discover or rediscover these landscapes dotted with orchards, vineyards and farms during the Open Days in the vineyards of the Brome-Missisquoi Wine Route. In all, 18 Vineyards open their doors from 10am to 5pm, to offer you unique experiences. Each vineyard offers between two and four free tastings, in some cases some local produce to complement the whole. As a bonus, you will probably have the opportunity to meet the winemakers themselves during your visit.

Here is the list of participating vineyards and do not forget to buy your tasting book:

Côtes d’Ardoise (Dunham)

The Côtes d’ardoise estate is supposedly the oldest vineyard still in operation in Quebec. It was created in 1980 by Christian Barthomeuf. Pretty gardens, sculptures exhibition, but especially many pebbles, shale and slate make this vineyard, a place predestined to viticulture.

To try: CidrO2, the new dry sparkling cider of the estate.

Le Château de Cartes(Dunham)

First an orchard, then transformed into a vineyard and cider house, the Château des Cartes has a small production, but a great dedication to their products.

To try: Blanc de noir. This term normally used for sparkling wines means a white wine made from black grapes. It’s atypical and very expressive.

Vignoble du Ruisseau (Dunham)

Vignoble du Ruisseau is a major project with a huge investment. You just need an overview of the newly opened domain (2016) to understand how ambitious the project is. About 40 hectares of vineyard, Vinifera only, fully controlled by geothermal ducts along the vineyards.

To try: The 2016 Chardonnay aged in barrels from a Mercurey cooperage.

Léon Courville Vigneron (Lac-Brome)

While other vineyards boast of having a micro climate, Mr. Courville goes further by claiming that he has the only true micro climate in Quebec. With its soil of pebbles and clay, its slight slope and the moderating aspect of Lake Brome, Léon Courville stands out for its use of St-Pépin, a difficult but delicate hybrid.

To Try: Muse 2016, sparkling wine made from St-Pépin.

Union Libre (Dunham)

Since 2010, Union Libre offers a complete range of ciders, including sparkling cider, ice cider and of course their famous cider of fire. Since the Government of Quebec made the fire cider category official in 2013, it will become their flagship product. However, it should not be forgotten that the estate is also a vineyard with a production production of dry white wines based on Seyval white, Vidal, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot gris and Gewurztraminer.

To try: Hop Cider

Val Caudalies (Dunham)

Val Caudalies was a big hit in 2015 when they made the first Vermouth from Quebec.

To try: White Vidal

Clos Ste-Croix Vineyard (Dunham)

You will find the Clos Ste-Croix in the heart of Dunham Village, directly on the main street. The vineyard of only 3 hectares is planted since 1990.

To try: The Vidal Village

L’Orpailleur (Dunham)

The project of 2 pioneers in Quebec, Charles-Henri de Coussergues, Hervé Durand and their partners Pierre Rodrigue and Frank Furtado has grown since its beginnings in 1982. The Orpailleur is today one of the largest and most some of the best known in Quebec.

To try: Some new products: Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay.

Vignoble de la Bauge (Brigham)

Before concentrating on the vineyard, the estate was first a boar farm. Still today the vineyard also offers a visit to their Animal Park on a path of about ½ Km bordered by large fences where in large enclosures are mixed wild boars, emblem of the vineyard, and several other species like; New Zealand Red Deer, Tibetan Yaks, Australian Emus, Andean Cordillera Lamas and many other species from around the world.

Domaine du Ridge (Saint-Armand)

Vignoble La Belle Alliance (Shefford)

Vignoble Domaine Bresee (Sutton)

Vignoble Gagliano (Dunham)

Vignoble La Grenouille (Cowansville)

Vignoble l’Ardennais (Stanbridge East)

Vignoble La Mission (Brigham)

Vignoble Les Trois Clochers (Dunham)

Vignoble Bromont (Brigham)

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Tenute SalvaTerra, Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, 2017 – Ce gagnant du Palmarès de la grande Dégustation de Montréal est arrivé en succursales.

En novembre dernier, à l’occasion de la grande dégustation de Montreal, a eu lieu le Grand palmarès des Pinot Grigio. En résumé, plus d’une centaine de vins de ce cépage, Italiens ou Français furent présentés devant un impressionnant comité de professionnels de l’industrie.

Maintenant, plus de 6 mois après la sélection, vous pouvez voir l’effet des résultats. Effectivement, la Saq s’étant engagée à commander les vins méritant une place sur le podium, on commence à les voir arriver. Tenute Salvaterra Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2017, troisième place au Palmarès, vient tout juste de trouver sa place sur les tablettes!

Tenute SalvaTerra

Tenute SalvaTerra est née à San Pietro, dans la région de Cariano, au cœur de la Valpolicella. L’histoire a commencé avec une recherche et un intérêt envers la terre et le terroir, une passion pour le caractère unique et les avantages de ce qu’un endroit très spécial peut offrir. Avec un respect fort et déterminé pour la Vénétie, les frères Furia ont développé le vignoble familial vers d’autres collines vénitiennes. L’un d’entre eux, les Monts Euganéens, plus proches d’un archipel qu’une colline, offre la qualité d’une viticulture de qualité axée sur le terroir. C’est dans ce mélange singulier et complexe de sols basaltiques, calcaires et graveleux, entouré de bois, d’oliveraies et de sources thermales naturelles que ce Pinot Gris de SalvaTerra a pris racines.

L’appellation Delle Venezie est en fait très récente. Établie en 2017 pour mettre de l’avant les Pinot grigio de la région. La zone de production s’étend sur toutes les régions de Friuli-Venezia-Giula, de Vénétie, ainsi que la moitié de Trentino-Alto-Adige. Bien que d’autres cépages soient autorisés, Les Pinot Grigio delle Venezie occupent une place particulière dans l’appellation.

Pour Beppe Caviola, œnologue consultant, l’important pour le domaine est de conserver la personnalité et l’élégance des vins et d’ainsi valoriser ses vignes et son terroir. Après tout, il ne faut pas oublier les différences stylistiques entre le Pinot Gris et le Pinot Grigio. Bien qu’ils soient synonymes, la version française tend à être plus riche, avec des arômes mûrs, un peu d’épices et même un côté huileux parfois. À l’opposé, les Pinot Grigio italiens, sont généralement beaucoup plus frais, plus légers. Ils sont généralement secs, sans bois, avec des arômes plus délicats. Bien sûr, il y a des versions assez simples et neutres, mais Tenute SalvaTerra sait exprimer le potentiel de ce cépage en terme de raffinement et de finesse.

Notes de dégustation

Le vin est assez stylistiquement typique de la région de la Vénétie. C’est élégant et raffiné avec une colonne vertébrale tirée de la riche minéralité rocheuse. Les arômes sont assez délicats, les fruits de verger doux sont mélangés à des notes florales, mais de manière subtile, avec des nuances complexe de fruits exotiques et de camomille. La bouche est nerveuse avec une acidité audacieuse, des saveurs très délicates et une légère finale minérale fumée qui résiste bien.

⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️

Code SAQ : 14022438   –  20.05$

Tenuta SalvaTerra, Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, 2017 – This winner of the Montreal Grand Tasting Awards has arrived in stores.

Last November, on the occasion of the great tasting of Montreal, the Grand Pinot Grigio winners took place. In summary, over a hundred wines from this grape, Italian or French were presented before an impressive committee of industry professionals.

Now, more than 6 months after the selection, you can now see the effect of the results. Indeed, the Saq has committed to order the wines that have earned a place on the podium, we begin to see them arrived. Tenute Salvaterra Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2017, third place in the winners, has just found its place on the shelves!

Tenute Salvaterra

Tenute SalvaTerra was born in San Pietro, in the region of Cariano, in the heart of Valpolicella. The story began with research and interest in the land and the land, a passion for the uniqueness and benefits of what a very special place can offer. With a strong and determined respect for Veneto, the Furia brothers developed the family vineyard to other Venetian hills. One of them, the Euganean Hills, closer to an archipelago than a hill, offers the quality of a viticulture quality based on the terroir. It is in this singular and complex mixture of basaltic, calcareous and gravelly soils, surrounded by woods, olive groves and natural thermal springs that this Pinot Gris from SalvaTerra has taken root.

The name Delle Venezie is in fact very recent. Established in 2017 to highlight the Pinot Grigio of the region. The production area covers all regions of Friuli-Venezia-Giula, Veneto, as well as half of Trentino-Alto-Adige. Although other grape varieties are allowed, Pinot Grigio delle Venezie occupies a special place in the appellation.

For consultant consultant oenologist Beppe Caviola, the important thing for the estate is to preserve the personality and elegance of the wines and thus enhance the value of its vines and terroir. After all, do not forget the stylistic differences between Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. Although they are synonymous, the French version tends to be richer, with ripe aromas, a little spice and even an oily side sometimes. In contrast, Italian Pinot Grigio are generally much cooler and lighter. They are generally dry, without wood, with more delicate aromas. Of course, there are fairly simple and neutral versions, but Tenute SalvaTerra knows how to express the potential of this grape in terms of refinement and finesse.

Tasting notes

The wine is quite stylistically typical of the region of Veneto. It’s elegant and refined with a spine drawn from the rich rocky mineral. The aromas are quite delicate, the sweet orchard fruits are mixed with floral notes, but in a subtle way, but also with complex shades of exotic fruits and chamomile. The palate is nervous with daring acidity, very delicate flavors and a light, smoky mineral finish that resists well.

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Interview with Pierre le Hong – 3D wine maps master

© Pierre Le Hong

I had the chance to talk with Pierre leHong, Cartographer, graphic designer, specialist of vineyard maps. You’ve probably seen them before, otherwise it’s happening here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3dnq0GBM2gCwTldDLD0jwg

or here:

https://www.facebook.com/PierreLeHongInfographie/

Ultimately, what Mr. LeHong has managed to do is present an infinitely complex element, the terroir in a visually stimulating way. It is a work of goldsmith, which often takes years of research, three in the case of the Medoc, but offers an explanation so much more understandable.

Here is his story ….

How has it all began?

It goes back to the early 2000s, at the time I worked in a press infographic agency in Paris and I often came to Bordeaux to discover the vineyards. Wine tourism was less developed than today. When I started to taste wine, I became interested in Bordeaux and I went mainly to Saint-Emilion or the Medoc. I did not understand why we managed to breed such famous wines, in such flat landscapes. Reading landscapes in the Medoc is very difficult because it is very flat. Whenever we arrived in the Medoc, in the properties, I asked what were the soils. Most of the time, I had the answer that it’s Gravel. I did not understand from an agronomic point of view how Cabernet Sauvignon could grow on Gravel while there is nothing on pebbles in nutritional terms.

Worse still, at the level of the reading of the landscapes, it is catastrophic. The highest point is about 30 meters away, and most of the time it is 18-20 meters. It’s almost flat. In these conditions, it is very difficult to understand how we can generate such wines. I thought it was strange that they could not explain their land intelligibly.

At the time, in the late 1990s, there was very little cross-section. It was much later that I understood that not only there are Gravels, but also sand and small pockets of clay that are very beneficial. Like St-Emilion, I did not understand the limestone, the limestone, but you never see the color unless you dig to find it. The properties had difficulty explaining the role of this limestone plateau which stores water and which makes a buffer in full phase of vegetative cycle for the vine. Which redistributes water that are needed by the vineyard.

When I came back to Paris, I thought there was something to do in this beautiful region. They have gold under their feet, they can’t communicate on it and above all they can’t show it intelligibly.

This project has matured for a few years, then between 2007 and 2010, I had the chance to make a book on the great classified growths of Médoc. For 3 years, I traveled the Médoc with a friend and we worked with properties like Château Palmer, Château Margaux, Lafite, etc. A year later, we did the same thing in Saint-Émilion, and that’s it.

Little by little, during the meetings with the various technical directors, cellar master, people saw what I was doing, at that time in static 3d. It was the first time they saw their technical maps put in 3D. It just needed rumps, just a small depression, a little hollow, to understand that between the two there was a drainage sheet with light, sandy, clayey soils, less favorable. Little by little, I thought, here you are, Pierre, what you wanted to do since the beginning of the 2000s. There must be something to draw from this, to make it into a career. You have a raw material with technical documents, soil maps, soil studies. They should be made more accessible from a democratic point of view. From there came the idea of ​​putting them in animation.

Do you have a preference for 2d or 3d?

The 3d is still better because we are in something dynamic. I’m not ashamed to say it, it must be sexy. There is nothing worse than a technical document. I often take the example of children, they learn more with something nice, pretty, it’s human. Go give multiplication tables or black and white diagrams to a child and he will learn less quickly.

We must find the right balance between the pedagogical, the too pedagogical, the too forbidding, and the too playful. If there is no content, it’s not good.

Which vineyard did you prefer to animate?

Tuscany! It’s very, very beautiful. Italy in general, actually.

A place in the world that you dream of working?

There are so many! I see it in relation to the pictures that I see from time to time on the internet or in Atlas. For example, there is the Mosel Valley. There are many, really. This is what makes the world of wine attractive, because it is a vector of imagination. Often, it is directly related to the landscape, there is the magic that a wine landscape can communicate. For example, next week I’m going to Piedmont and I can’t wait. It’s been four years that I want to go and that’s the vector. It’s a first step towards learning.

Other projects?

Yes, a lot. Next week, I’ll go to the Luberon, then there is Lirac. Thereafter, I go to the Drôme and Barolo. I have lots of others.

Do you think you’ll make other books?

No, I’m going to focus on the 3d. I have seen evolution especially in France. Publishers are very cautious about books that are a bit technical, because there are fewer and fewer paper readers. It’s a shame, but it’s like that.

©Pierre Le Hong

J’ai eu la chance de discuté avec Pierre leHong, Cartographe, infographiste, spécialiste des cartes de vignobles. Vous les avez probablement déjà vu, sinon ça se passe ici.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3dnq0GBM2gCwTldDLD0jwg

ou ici

https://www.facebook.com/PierreLeHongInfographie/

Ultimement, ce que Mr. LeHong a réussi à faire, c’est de présenter un élément infiniment complexe, le terroir d’une manière visuellement stimulante. C’est un travail d’orfèvre, qui prend souvent des années de recherche, trois dans le cas du Médoc, mais qui offre une explication tellement plus compréhensible.

Voici son histoire….

 

Comment tout a commencé?

Ça remonte au début des années 2000, à l’époque je travaillais dans une agence d’infographie de presse à Paris et je venais souvent à Bordeaux pour découvrir le vignoble Bordelais. L’oenotourisme était moins développé qu’aujourd’hui. Lorsque j’ai commencé à déguster du vin, je me suis intéressé à Bordeaux et j’allais essentiellement à Saint-Émilion ou dans le Médoc. Je ne comprenais pas pourquoi on arrivait à engendrer des vins aussi réputé, dans des paysages aussi plats. La lecture des paysages dans le Médoc est très difficile puisque c’est très plat. À chaque fois que nous arrivions dans le médoc, dans les propriétés, je demandais quels étaient les sols. La plupart du temps, j’avais comme réponse que c’est des graves. Je ne comprenais pas d’un point de vue agronomique comment le Cabernet Sauvignon pouvait pousser sur des graves alors qu’il n’y a rien sur des cailloux en terme nutritionnels.

Pire encore, au niveau de la lecture des paysages, c’est catastrophique. Le point le plus haut est à environ à 30 mètres, et la plupart du temps on est à 18-20 mètres. C’est quasiment plat.  Dans ces conditions, c’est très difficile de comprendre comment on peut engendrer de tels vins. Je trouvais étrange qu’ils ne pouvaient pas expliquer leur terroir de manière intelligible.

À l’époque, fin des années 90, il y avait très peu de coupe de sols. C’est bien plus tard que j’ai compris que non seulement il y a des graves, mais aussi  du sable et des petites poches d’argile qui sont très bénéfiques. Pareil, à St-Émilion, je ne comprenais pas le calcaire, le calcaire mais on n’en voit jamais la couleur sauf si on creuse pour le trouver. Les propriétés avaient du mal à expliquer le rôle de ce plateau calcaire qui emmagasine de l’eau et qui fait un tampon en pleine phase de cycle végétatif pour la vigne. Qui redistribue au compte-goutte l’eau et les réserves hydrique dont la vigne à besoin.

En revenant à Paris, je me disais qu’il  y avait quelque chose à faire dans cette superbe région. Ils ont de l’or sous les pieds, ils n’arrivent pas à communiquer dessus et surtout ils n’arrivent pas à le montrer de manière intelligible.

Ce projet a muri pendant quelques années puis  entre 2007 et 2010, j’ai eu la chance de réaliser un livre sur les grands crus classés du Médoc. Pendant 3 ans, j’ai sillonner le médoc avec un ami et nous avons travaillé avec des propriétés comme Château Palmer, Château Margaux, Lafite, etc. On a réalisé des coupes de sols, etc. Un an plus tard, nous avons fait la même chose à Saint-Émilion, et voilà.

Petit à petit, lors des rendez-vous avec les différents directeurs techniques, maitre de chai, les gens voyaient ce que je faisais, à l’époque en 3d statique. C’était, la première fois qu’ils voyaient leurs cartes techniques mise en 3D. Il suffit qu’il y ait deux croupe, juste une petite dépression, un petit creux, pour comprendre qu’entre le deux il y avait une nappe de drainage avec des sols légers, sableux, argileux, moins favorables. Petits à petits, je me suis dit, voilà, Pierre, ce que tu veux faire depuis le début des années 2000. Il doit bien y avoir quelque chose à en tirer, pour en faire ton métier. Tu as une matière première avec des documents technique, des cartes de sols, des études de sols. Il faudrait les rendre plus accessible d’un point de vue démocratique. De là est venu l’idée de les mettre en animation.

Avez-vous une préférence pour le 2d ou le 3d?

La 3d c’est quand même mieux parce qu’on est dans quelque chose de dynamique. Je n’ai pas honte de le dire, il faut que ça soit sexy. Il y a rien de pire qu’un document technique. Je prends souvent l’exemple des enfants, ils apprennent plus avec quelque chose d’agréable, de joli, c’est humain. Allez donner des tables de multiplication ou des schémas en noir et blanc à un enfant et il va apprendre moins vite.

Il faut trouver le juste milieu entre le pédagogique, le trop pédagogique, le trop rébarbatif, et le trop ludique. S’il n’y a pas de contenu, ce n’est pas bon.

Quels vignoble as-tu préféré animé?

La toscane! C’est très, très beau. L’Italie en général en fait.

Un endroit dans le monde que tu rêverais de travailler?

Houlà! Il y en a tellement. Je vois ça par rapport aux photos que je vois de temps en temps sur internet ou dans les atlas. Par exemple, il y a la vallée de la Mosel.  Il y en beaucoup, vraiment. C’est ce qui rend le monde du vin attractif, parce que c’est un vecteur d’imaginaire, d’imagination. Souvent, c’est lié directement au paysage, il y a la magie qu’un paysage viticole peut communiquer. Par exemple,  la semaine prochaine je pars dans le Piedmont et j’ai hâte. Ça fait quatre ans que je veux y aller et ça c’est le vecteur.  C’est un premier pas vers un apprentissage.

Autres projets?

Oui, beaucoup. La semaine prochaine je pars dans le Luberon, ensuite, il y a Lirac. Par la suite,  je pars dans la Drôme et du côté du Barolo. J’en ai plein d’autres.

Pensez-vous faire d’autres livres?

Non, je vais me concentrer sur la 3d. J’ai vu l’évolution surtout en France. Les éditeurs sont très frileux concernant les livre un peu technique, parce qu’il y a de moins en moins de lecteurs papier. C’est bien dommage, mais c’est comme ça.

left field Albarino

The symphony of Shiki restaurant – Vienna

Conductor, violinist and now restaurateur extraordinaire, Joji Hattori has brought something new to the gastronomic scene. Have you heard of Japanese-Austrian fusion?

In the heart of culture city, a few little steps away from the iconic opera & other innumerable palaces stand this polished multi-leveled, multi-faceted establishment. The dark and refined décor invites the honorable guest to not only a culinary experience but also a sensory delight for all the senses. Joji Hattori’s elegant Japanese restaurant is located at the historic heart of Vienna and is divided into a fine-dining section and a brasserie area. This means you have a choice of either a full tasting menu at the exclusive velvet & living material covered private dining room, or just have a treat at the sushi bar in the front of the house.

We had the chance to have a very special place. The chef’s table, with a display window revealing the detailed and turmoil action of the kitchen, is normally where you’ll find a peaceful Mr. Hattori sipping on a glass of wine as if he were the conductor of all of this spectacle. The whole evening was a harmonious orchestra, a symphony of taste, color & smiles.

We chose to take the omakase menu. Omakase is the expression for “I leave it to you”. Such a creative expression seemed fitted for a first visit and especially for a chef’s table evening. Smiles, nods and polite greetings were exchanged with the kitchen staff as our choice was revealed to them. I felt they were glad. We definitely were. The fellowship & solidarity that happened in this closed space for the whole evening was touching to say the least.

A quick look the rest of the menu revealed probably every option possible, a surprising and extremely vast array of choices. I don’t remember ever visiting some place where kobe beef meets bento boxes & Chilean sea bass is neighbor to fresh wasabi roots; where you can get sushi as well as grilled dishes and European fanciest ingredients. The delicacies combine into contemporary taste and surprising flavors.  Nothing close to traditional Japanese cuisine, which would probably concentrate on only one type of dish, Shiki stands away from cliché.

When we say everything’s in the details, Shiki goes even further. Nothing is left unattended, uncared for, from their exclusive light weight, fresh-wood, chemical-free chopsticks to their extensive sake collection destined for pairings.

Salmon starter course with  cucumber salad, lotus roots, sesame and nori seaweed paired perfectly with a local Burgenland Weissburgnder. The freshness and purity of both with just a hint of richness from the fish as well as from the wine. This was genius.

All your sushi needs and expectations to be met. Whether you want sashimi, nigiri or maki, only the best ingredient and craftsmanship is to be expected, freshly grated wasabi root as needed.

The wine list include references from all over the world. This Sea Bass was so delicate but flavorful at the same time. The pairing with the fransola Sauvignon Blanc which is quite restrictive on the green aspect yet vibrant acted like a supporter to the dish.

 

The last but not least, berry variation with miso ice cream was one of the most delicate and complex dessert I have tasted. The combination with the various berries would just bring out a new flavors for each bite.

A big thank you goes to Joji Hattori and his amazing team for their hospitality and for allowing me to experience the aesthetics, passion, and dedication that go into creating culinary poetry. When something’s so right and beautiful, it always comes from the most amazing & inspiring people.

left field Albarino

Château de Maligny

There are these kind of estates that hide a story so rich that it is impossible to tell it all. When every aspect of an estate is bound by a multitude of historical and geographical links. When every aspect of the terroir makes sense in the precise and distinct location, this is the ideal profile for creating great wines.

Château de Maligny is part of Chablis in the same way that Chablis is anchored in the Château de Maligny. It is from the power of this link, so distinctive, that it is possible to see the true face of Chablis. A fragmented Chablis with a unique terroir precision. Chablis is distinguished not only by its recognizable stylistic ability, but also by its subtle diversity. This isolated region, apparently apart, often pounded by frost and hail, varying from one vintage to the next and from one plot to another, is of a complexity that is not always given to it.

I was delighted to share this tasting with Mr. Jean Paul Durup, great winemaker and especially great speaker who has demonstrated us this endearing side of the appellation.

The Durup Family started back in 1560 but wasn’t always situated in Maligny. Jean Paul’s grandfather was originally from villy and was the first of his family to cross the Serein River and establish in Maligny with his grand-mother. At that time the vineyard was quite small and it wasn’t until Durup Père started to take interest in the different parcels that the estate truly developed. He was called the vines fool as he was looking at the places that were impossible to work. The most abrupt slopes and arduous vineyards. The Maligny properties cover 170 hectares over the commune of Maligny and other parts of Chablis. It is now the largest estate in the appellation. The estate ferments and matures their wines in stainless steel without the use of wood to keep the historic & organoleptic Chablis identity.

The latest vintages in Chablis were catastrophic. 2015 was a close one, most producer were lucky enough to harvest before the hail, but others like Château de Maligny were hit only 3 days before their scheduled harvest. 2016 was strongly affected by frost and hail that destroyed a huge part of the yield. 2017 was as cold if not more, the frost came right when it shouldn’t and buds couldn’t keep up with it. On the other hand, 2018 is the light at the end of the tunnel, an immensely rich and textured vintage that is said to be magical & more than welcomed financially for the estates. After all, our world doesn’t deserve a Chablis shortage, ever. The tough alone is dreadful. There’s always protection options like sprinklers or ‘Bougies’ that you light up between the vines, but as Mr. Durup says : “We don’t worry about the protected parcels, but the ones that aren’t.” Chablis is a delicate matter.

Château de maligny, Petit Chablis, 2017

Château de Maligny Petit Chablis is unusual in style and in provenance. The very ripe fruit character it showcase comes from parcels that are close to or alongside some Premier cru and Grand cru vineyards. One spécifique parcel is identical to Blanchot in terms of soil and exposition. Another in Maligny has an outstanding pinpoint south orientation. This makes an aromatic wine with this rather tasty stony flavor. Petit Chablis is often taken as pejorative, but it should be synonymous of affective & easy peasy. The role of the Petit Chablis is just for fun.

Château de maligny, La vigne de la reine, 2017

This plot is located in a very narrow valley (also called Mignotte valley) in which a particular micro-climate prevails. The sun’s rays hit the poor stony ground of the valley, which stores this heat to restore it to the bunches. This Chablis is floral and mineral altogether with a pure vibrancy and rich flavors. Flexible & elegant.

Château de maligny, Marche du Roi, 2017

La Marche du Roi is a historic site located between the Premiers Crus Montée de Tonerre and Mont de Milieu. Formerly, this coast was the border of the Kingdom of France vis-a-vis the Duchy of Burgundy from where the name which was given to him The March of the King. The 45% slope and poor soils gives it richness & precision. The fruitiness is cross-grained, textured and stressed. The wine is quite balanced etween the overwhelming minerality, acidity and tart green almonds feeling.

Château de maligny, Carré de césar, 2017

Carré de césar is the most typical and intense in terms of minerality with distinctive gun-flint. Situated close to La vigne de la reine but with a slope that is softer, these are the closest vines to the estate with a thigh style and a narrative frame on citrus fruits. This is schoolbook Chablis, a representative expression.

Château de maligny, Vieilles Vignes, 2017

By old vines, they mean true old vines planted back in 1905 (one of the two oldest in Chablis), 1926 & 1943. They had older vines from 1895 before, but the disastrous frost of 1985 made them crack with no hope of salvation along with a good amount of the vineyards as well. It’s a generous wine, fleshy with ripe exotic fruits and an intense aromatic aspect. The honeyed and rich palate is lifted up by freshness & finesse. It’s unique in its concentrated demonstration.

Château de maligny, Chablis Premier cru Fourchaume, 2017

Fourchaume is probably the most prestigious and recognized premier cru especially because it’s the largest in scale. The vines destined for it are located in Lieux-dits such as l’Ardillier, La Grande Côte, Bois Séguin and l’Homme Mort. It’s absolutely delicate & Floral as we would expect for a Fourchaume. It’s soft & lighthearted. All the taste comes from the vibrant, pithy acidity and the straightforward structure.

Château de maligny, Chablis premier cru L’Homme Mort, 2017

The Chablis Premier Cru L’homme Mort is one of the eight Lieux-dits that make up the Fourchaume climate. Just to complicate things, within the 17 Premier cru considered “flagship Premier Cru” there are 23 other Lieux-dits or climats that you can find on labels. L’homme Mort is one of them. This wine showcase added intensity and added wet rock characteristic compared to the other Fourchaume. It has the distinguished Chablisienne intensity & power with a nervous backbone.

Château de maligny, Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey, 2017

Vau de Vey is definitely not the most famous, but still deserves attention. It was extremely prestigious pre-phylloxera but was then left to abandon because it’s arduous slope. It has a citrus fruit-forward approach. I’d say it’s the only climat which is as much about grapefruit. The palate has a frivolous acidity, almost untamed but extremely pleasing. It is tasty, with finesse and meekness, tightly textured with and edgy finish.

Château de maligny, Chablis premier cru Montée de Tonerre, 2017

The only flaw of Montée de Tonerre from Mr. Durup point of view is that they only have 2 ha. It’s the only cru that can bring this unique iodine character to Chablis. It’s an intense and dramatic expression with a direct, masculine palate and an imposing mouthfeel. We have the sour citrus fruit, we have the wet stone character but with an outspoken style.