Author: Mike McDuff

Among sparkling in the world, there are a few bright, shining stars. Yet, one has managed to shine the brightest and succeeded in becoming one of the most sought out for wine in the world: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. With its distinguished characteristics, its dedication to the region’s heritage and accessible approach, it’s truly a gem for wine lovers.

The thing is Prosecco is often used to describe Italian sparkling wine in general. We shouldn’t forget that the Prosecco world is intricate and complex. Not all Prosecco are born the same. What you want is a quality focused Prosecco, one that can truly embodies the region’s potential and express the style with elegance. The first thing to look for is the DOCG mention. Basically, in Italy, a DOCG ( Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) Is the highest form of recognition an appellation can get. Then, you want your Prosecco to come from a unique place, with a dreamlike landscape, that has earned UNESCO World Heritage accreditation. Look for Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore.

The region

After a ten-year long nomination process, in 2019 Prosecco Hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore was awarded UNESCO recognition as a World Heritage Site due to its unique and ancient cultivation and landscape. Winemaking in the region dates back to 1772. That’s 247 years of tradition and heritage!

The area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore lies in the countryside situated 50 km from Venice and 100 km from the Dolomites. Here vine-growing has extremely ancient origins. This winemaking region is considered one-of-a-kind because vines are planted on a series of hills with narrow ridges and steep slopes with a hogback appearance. This makes mechanized harvest impossible. All the grapes must be picked by hands and treasured deeply. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G. is parted between thousands of small producers, often families that’ve been growing grapes for generations on their own land. This century old tradition won’t be lost any time soon. That’s for sure!

The highest point of the hill is Superiore Di Cartizze, a small plot of land of 107 hectares in the commune of Valdobbiadene divided by hundreds of growers. They produce only a million bottles per year. It is known as the best expression possible.

The wine

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is the original growing area for Prosecco. It’s a region that is more limited, but also very strict about the quality and styles of their sparkling wines. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG is often considered a guarantee of top quality and highest standards in the vineyard and winery, as well as concentrated flavour and balance.

Prosecco is a versatile wine produced in fully sparkling (spumante) and lightly sparkling (frizzante) styles. It can be found with different levels of sweetness, from the driest (Extra Brut) to the sweetest (Dry). The sweetness of the wine will affect its style tremendously. While extra brut Prosecco Superiore will show great tension and linearity, Dry Prosecco Superiore will be rounded with intense richness and a completely different aromatic profile.

Glera is the main grape varietal and the one that is almost exclusively linked to the fantastic Prosecco sparkling wines. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is produced from at least 85% of grapes of the Glera variety; no more than 15% of the following local varieties may be added: Verdiso, Bianchetta, Perera and Glera Lunga. Still, only local grape varietals are allowed and Glera still rule as king of them all.

The method of production is called Italian Method or Charmat method or Cuve closed or Mariotti method. It consists of a second fermentation in pressurized vats called autoclaves. Keep in mind that wines from the 2019 vintage and forward will now be allowed to use the term “Sui Lieviti” (“On the Lees/Yeasts). This will designate sparkling wines that have been refermented in bottle. A new style that pays tribute to a traditional style to try out and keep an eye out for.

The flavors and aromas are often light and delicate. These are two of the distinctive aspects of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. Aromas may include fresh flowers, tangy citrus fruits, orchard fruits, mineral-driven and the very distinctive green almond. Overall, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG are wines of great sensation that are extremely versatile with food.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is an ancient tradition that was perfectly suited for our contemporary world and taste. This is why it became so popular, even if it’s not always understood; it’s always loved and appreciated.

  

 

 

As the first Brunello imported in the USA, and with a growing part of the production destined to export, 55% going towards 60%, Fattoria dei Barbi  is a historic estate that continues to be a pioneer in Tuscan wines. If the name doesn’t sound a clue, the very recognizable blue label might. This Brunello is he benchmark of the estate, consistent, classic and made every year, independently of the vintage conditions.

The estate is one of only five in Montalcino that have continuously operated for over 100 years. The Colombini family has owned land in Montalcino since 1352, but only acquired Fattoria dei Barbi in the end of the 18th century. They were one of the first families, right after Biondi-Santi, to produce brunello. This might just appear as the past for you, but for old world classic wines like this, history, status and tradition is part of the wine. And again, without a rich past, the cellar wouldn’t be as full. It hides some very ancient treasures and visitors might get a sight of Brunellos and Vin santos dating back to 1870.

BRUSCO & ROSSO

What’s the difference? Rosso is an official DOC, it’s made of 100% sangiovese and just shows the potential of elegance of this majestic grape varieties. It’s not a very restrictive DOC and there’s many style of Rosso and it’s sometimes called the Picolo Brunello ( small Brunello) But this one stands on its own. The Brusco was first produced in the late 60s. It’s a deposited name only Barbi can use and it’s made as an approachable wine with 10% Merlot.

In 1997, the family bought a new estate in Scansano of 20 hectares. While there’s no new land planting permitted in Brunello di montalcino, Scansano & Maremma are regions still open for developpement.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brusco dei Barbi 2016

Brusco is meant to be a lighter and more economical option for the Barbi portfolio. In reality, it’s quite a treat. Lovely fruity expression on dried, fleshy plums with decent amount of empyreumatic notes, coffee and smoke. It has good strength and a dense backbone. It has everything to support a good tomato based plate.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Morellino di Scansano 2016

Even lighter than the Brusco in my opinion, the Morellino is simply based on fresh sour cherries and a touch of green olives. Perfectly fresh and easy drinking.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Maremma 2017

The youth of this wine can be felt in drying tannins and bitterness that follows in the finale. It is bold, intense & traditional in style. The alcohol is warming. It’s a tough little fellow that’ll probably get softer with age.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Rosso di Montalcino 2017

The house likes to call its rosso wine one of the most versatile at the table. Flexible, almost queasy, it still has a tight but tamed tannic structure. For them it is not a little Brunello, but a wine of its own. It shows a great expression of fumed dried cherries, tobacco, dried tomato pesto and some mint on the finale.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino blue label 2013

This wine is an explosion of flavors with a great variety in its aromatic profile: Underbrush, dark spices, herbs, wild berries aromas lead the nose. The solid palate offers Maraschino cherry, prune and ground clove alongside firm tannins.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino blue label 2014

For a vintage that was legendary bad, the most difficult since 2002. They lost 40% of the production to mold this year and there was no riserva nor cru made. The result was this deep and mature expression for the Brunello with a bitter and gamey palate.

 

VIGNA DEL FIORE

Created by Francesca Colombini in 1981 as her 50th anniversary self-proclaimed gift, this is the very feminine and winsome single vineyard of the estate. It literally means Flower vineyard but in fact it relates to the local river called Fiore. It is broad with an incredible expression and substance, especially in the voluptuous 2007.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2013

2013 was a peculiar vintage. Very closed on the nose, but overly expressive on the palate. Tannins are integrated and balanced with an immediate pleasantness from the overall tasty intensity. It could be considered a modern vintage with its hints of bitterness and frilly characteristics.

 

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2012

Vintage 2012 was very tense & elegant. There’s a delicate softness on the texture, but with a clear and delicious intensity. You’ll find juicy aromas of very ripe red fruits, as well as coffee & dark chocolate notes. The bright acidity makes it quite quaffable.

 

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2006

A pure and decisive proof that Brunello needs time to express its true potential. The 2006 was a true beauty with its very complex aromas of plums, molasses, leather, Tuscan tobacco as well as hint of violets, bitter chocolate, blood orange and a salty, umami filled finale. It’s a savory but extremely soft intricate vintage.

RISERVA

Opinions differ concerning which wine of Fattoria dei Barbi is the best one between Vigna del Fiore and the Riserva. I guess this is personal opinion. The riserva is definitely more reserved, and open up slower. It doesn’t give itself right away and you have to wait for it to open up. It is more structured and mature.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2013

The lithe, linear palate offers dried cherry, tobacco and star anise alongside polished tannins and firm acidity. Again, 2013 surprises by the originality of its flavor profile including black olive, artichoke, bean sprouts and heavily roasted character.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012

Traditional expression made with a very reduced production this year. It’s tight, austere, with savory hazelnut and coffee aromas. The palate is bold and wide with polished tanins.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010

Only 3900 botlles of 2010 was produced. The color is darker than usual with browning sides. Remember, back in 2010, it was a new day for Brunelle, an upsurge for international market. Its in this context of heavy interest that this firework expression was made. It‘s a powerful wine that hides it behind a soft touch.

Fattoria dei Barbi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001

For a 2001, I’m astonished by the bright and lively expression. Steely, juicy with soy sauce and truffled aromas, the complexity of this vintage is impressive and developing. This brunello offers a pretty bouquet, showing elegance and restraint at the same time. There are layers of small berry fruit, spice and leather, with dusty, dry tannins.

There’s a general movement in the Austrian wine industry towards healthy and eco-friendly winemaking. Following this idea, many vineyards are turning organic and sulphur & copper reduction is highly recommended. However, organic methods are not always effective enough. To help the growers, there’s been a long research and development towards creating new, fungus-resistant grape varieties.

These “new breed” of vines results from the intentional combination of two or more grape varieties (single or multiple crossings) with the focus on the new variety revealing all of the positive characteristics of the parent varieties while the negative characteristics are suppressed. Despite intense efforts, however, there has been only partial success. The cross-breeding of vines is both time- and cost-intensive. In Austria, new cultivars are bred at the Lehr- und Forschungsuzentrum für Wein- und Obstbau (Federal Institute for Viticulture and Pomology) in Klosterneuburg.

After many lost and unsuccessful efforts. Some new varieties are finally showing great potential. These new breeds or new crossings are now allowed into the official Austrian Quality Grapes. These partially- resistant varieties all need fewer phytosanitary measures against fungal disease have to be performed.

White grape varieties

Blütenmuskateller

Severnyj x Muskat

The Blütenmuskateller is a Russian crossing from the year 1947, one of the fungus-resistant varieties. It was first added to the register of grape varieties in 2013. It’s very perfumed and very opulent as well as suitable for sweet wine production thanks to its high sugars level.

Muscaris

Solaris x Muskateller

Planted mostly in Steiermark for now, this wine is a good candidate for sekt Porduction. It’s similar to muskateller in terms of aromas but have higher acidity.

Souvignier Gris

Cabernet Sauvignon x Bronner

Souvignon Gris is strongly resistant against oidium and Peronospora and its robust skin makes it resistant to rot also. Somewhat neutral, the wines can get to quite a rich character. It’s medium  everything style is a look alike to Pinot Gris.

For the production of wine without protected designation of origin or geographical indication with grape variety- or vintage-designation, the following white wine varieties are permitted for planting:

Bronner | Cabernet blanc |  Johanniter |  Donauveltliner |  Donauriesling

Red grape Varieties

Rathay

Klosterneuburg 1189-9-77 (= Seyve Villard 18-402 x Blaufränkisch) x Blauburger

Rathay became an official Quality variety in 2000. It is mostly destined as a blending partner for its very dark color and robust components.

Roesler

Blauer Zweigelt x Klosterneuburg 1189-9-77 (= Seyve Villard 18-402 x Blaufränkisch)

Similar to Rathay in term of concentration and color, Roesler is less resistant to oidium but more resistant to winter frost.

Also permitted :

Regent | Cabernet Jura | Pinot Nova

Les Vignobles Laur Côtes du Lot Paradoxe de Malbec

Available in SAQ: 19:80$

Vignobles Laur has been in the heart of the French South-west viticulture for 6 generations going back to 1881. This superb estate of 46 hectares, planted on the hills around the tiny & hilly village of Floressas in the department of the Lot. It might be 30 km away from the medieval town of Cahors, but they share the very same history and bond toward the culture of the black wines, Côt.

The official Cahors viticultural area spreads for 25 miles (40km) along a tightly meandering section of the Lot River. The Lot rises in the hills of the Massif Central and winds slowly westwards through the southern French countryside before flowing into the Garonne, which then continues on to Bordeaux. This navigable link with the port of Bordeaux (and export markets beyond) was once of vital economic importance to Cahors’ winemakers. The Bordelais also benefited from the connection, not just because they imposed high taxes on the incoming wines, but also because they blended the dark, rich Cahors wines

with their own, which in those times often lacked color and depth. It wasn’t without good reason that Malbec was introduced to the vineyards of Bordeaux in the 18th Century. The key vineyard sites for Cahors wines are roughly divided into two categories. Those on the gravelly slopes between the plateaux and the rivers turn out more approachable, fruitier. Those on the limestone plateaux of the area (known as the Causses) produce more tannic, longer-lived wines. Vignobles laur has the avantages of the latter with intricate clay – limestone ferruginous soils, and an ideal exposure ensuring a privileged sunshine for the vine. They work exclusively with Malbec, even if they weren’t afraid to think outside the box and use the full potential of this unique grape varietal.

The typical Cahors wine is darkly colored and has a meaty, herb-tinged aroma, with hints of spiced black cherries and a whiff of cedar. Their selection of Malbec-based wines is impressively representative of the terroir typicity and local potential. From the great Grande reserve, to the iconic Horus cuvée and even within the Cuvée “Le vin de mon pépé” in remembrance of the know-how of previous generation, in tribute to their grandfather (Maurice), who is behind the revival of our vineyard after phylloxera and replanted Malbec in the 1960s. All have a precision, tension and concentration you’d be looking forward to.

Continually striving to improve and innovate, the latest range of wines is called ‘Paradoxe’. Made 100% from Malbec, they are revolutionary wines, with a dry white – yes white. The Paradoxe de Malbec dry white is a wine with extraordinary depth of flavour, almost colourless, yet with plenty of body and a long but crisp finish. There’s a tart, textural character with fleshy peach and nectarine aromas. The Paradoxe has pure flavors and unique aromatic profile.

 

Vignobles Laur et le révolutionnaire Paradoxe de Malbec

Vignobles Laur est au cœur de la viticulture dans le sud-ouest de la France depuis 6 générations et ce, depuis 1881. Ce superbe domaine de 46 hectares, est planté sur les collines autour du petit village de Floressas dans le département du Lot. Il se trouve peut-être à 30 km de la ville médiévale de Cahors, mais ils partagent la même histoire et entretiennent des liens étroits avec la culture des vins noirs, Côt.

La région viticole officielle de Cahors s’étend sur 40 km le long d’un tronçon sinueux de la rivière Lot. Le Lot prend sa source dans les collines du Massif Central et traverse lentement la campagne française méridionale avant de se diriger vers la Garonne, qui se poursuit ensuite vers Bordeaux. Ce lien de navigation avec le port de Bordeaux (et les marchés d’exportation au-delà) revêtait jadis une importance économique vitale pour les viticulteurs de Cahors. Les Bordelais ont également bénéficié de cette connexion, non seulement parce qu’ils imposaient des taxes élevées sur les vins entrants, mais aussi parce qu’ils associaient les sombres et riches vins de Cahors avec les leurs, qui manquaient souvent de couleur et de profondeur à cette époque. Ce n’est pas sans raison que le Malbec a été introduit dans le vignoble bordelais au 18ème siècle. Les sites viticoles clés pour les vins de Cahors sont grossièrement divisés en deux catégories. Ceux sur les pentes graveleuses entre les plateaux et les rivières font des vins plus accessibles, plus fruités. Ceux des plateaux calcaires de la région (connus sous le nom de Causses) produisent des vins plus tanniques et plus complexes. Les Vignobles Laur ont les avantages de ce dernier avec des sols argilo-calcaires complexes et une exposition idéale assurant un ensoleillement privilégié à la vigne. Ils travaillent exclusivement avec le Malbec, même s’ils n’ont pas peur de sortir des sentiers battus et d’utiliser tout le potentiel de ce cépage unique.

Le vin typique de Cahors est de couleur sombre et dégage un arôme de viande aux notes herbacées, avec des notes de cerises noires épicées et un soupçon de cèdre. Leur sélection de vins à base de malbec représente de manière impressionnante la typicité du terroir et le potentiel local. De la Grande Réserve à la cuvée iconique Horus et même au sein de la cuvée «Le vin de mon pépé» en souvenir du savoir-faire de la génération précédente, en hommage à leur grand-père (Maurice), qui est à l’origine du renouveau de notre vignoble après le phylloxera et le Malbec replanté dans les années 1960. Tous ont une précision, une tension et une concentration inattendues.

Cherchant constamment à améliorer et à innover, la dernière gamme de vins s’appelle «Paradoxe». Élaborés à 100% à partir de malbec, il présente un vin révolutionnaire blanc – oui un Malbec blanc. Le blanc sec Paradoxe de Malbec est un vin d’une extraordinaire profondeur de saveur, presque incolore, mais avec beaucoup de corps et une finale longue mais vive. Une texture acidulée aux arômes charnus de pêche et de nectarine. Le Paradoxe a des saveurs pures et un profil aromatique unique.

DIY – My wine co – What if you tried to make wine at home?

Have you ever wondered how much care and work is needed to produce your nice little bottle of wine you enjoy in the evening?

Wine making in most case is a labor of love, but still labor alright. Working at a vineyard is a highly romanticized career—who doesn’t want to be part of the process of making this delicious grape juice for adults? But it’s hard work. Very hard work!

Yes, we do know it is made from grapes, but what are the stages involved in the process? Wine making is something that has been done from thousands of years. Making wine is not just an art but there is also a lot of science involved in the process. Smallest of mistakes in the process can have a major impact on the final product. First there’s the harvest, the crushing of the grapes, the fermentation, the clarification and the ageing. All of this before bottling. It seems quite simple put like that but it’s a process that takes at least a year, often many, from when the vines start to wake up in spring, to harvest in fall and all the vinification process.

What if I told you, you can try to play around with fermentation at home?

At-home wine-making is a big project altogether. You usually can’t expect fast results. That’s DIY My Wine co. has created an all-in one, winemaking kit. Putting aside the complexity for a fun way to try something new. There’s no bulky equipment or extra space required. You take the base wine, either a Pinot Grigio or a Cabernet Sauvignon, you mix in the ingredients to start the fermentation, you wait, and you get your own 4 liters bag-in-a-box wine. It’s really a simplified way of making wine. It is made to be easy and fun for you, but it’s not at all realistic of what goes on in vineyards really. Unfortunately, life is not as simple as this built-in, all in one recipe.

While you step back and enjoy your self-made wine, I’d like you to be able to think back the winemakers and vine growers out there. Imagine the groups of harvesters bent down in the rows of vines for days. Imagine the barrels forgotten in cellars for years just to let the wine mature. Imagine what happens if there’s a wild fire, hail, frost, storm, drought on those juicy grapes. It’s a whole year of work that is affected.

Wine is not as simple as a DIY, but at least it can be for you.

Bonus: you can even brag about making your own wine to your friends and share it with them if you want to.

 

 

DIY – My wine co – Et si vous essayiez de faire du vin chez vous?

Vous êtes-vous déjà demandé combien d’attention et de travail étaient nécessaires pour produire votre jolie petite bouteille de vin que vous apprécierez le soir?

La vinification est dans la plupart des cas un travail passionné, mais un travail ardu quand même. Travailler dans un vignoble est une carrière très romantique – qui ne veut pas participer au processus de fabrication de ce délicieux jus de raisin pour adultes? Mais c’est un travail difficile, manuel et long.

Oui, nous savons qu’il est fabriqué à partir de raisins, mais quelles sont les étapes du processus? La vinification est une chose qui a été faite depuis des milliers d’années. Faire du vin n’est pas seulement un art, il y a aussi beaucoup de science impliquée dans le processus. La moindre erreur peut avoir un impact majeur sur le produit final. Il y a d’abord la récolte, le pressurage des raisins, la fermentation, la clarification et le vieillissement. Tout cela avant la mise en bouteille. Cela semble assez simple, mais c’est un processus qui prend au moins un an, souvent beaucoup plus, à partir du moment où les vignes commencent à se réveillée au printemps, jusqu’à la récolte en automne et à tout le processus de vinification.

Et si je te disais, tu peux essayer de jouer avec la fermentation à la maison?

La vinification à la maison est un grand projet. Vous ne pouvez généralement pas vous attendre à des résultats rapides. DIY My Wine co. a créé un kit de vinification tout-en-un. Mettre de côté la complexité pour une façon amusante d’essayer quelque chose de nouveau. Aucun équipement encombrant ni espace supplémentaire requis. Vous prenez le vin de base, un Pinot Grigio ou un Cabernet Sauvignon, vous mélangez les ingrédients pour démarrer la fermentation, vous attendez et vous obtenez votre propre vinier de 4 litres. C’est vraiment une façon simplifiée de faire du vin. Il est conçu pour être facile et amusant pour vous, mais ce n’est pas du tout réaliste quant à ce qui se passe dans les vignobles. Malheureusement, la vie n’est pas aussi simple que cette recette intégrée.

Pendant que vous prenez du recul et appréciez votre vin fait par vous-même, je voudrais que vous puissiez penser aux viticulteurs et aux oenologue. Imaginez les groupes de vendangeurs repliés dans les rangées de vignes pendant des jours. Imaginez les fûts oubliés dans les caves pendant des années pour laisser le vin mûrir. Imaginez ce qui se passe s’il y a un feu, de la grêle, du gel, une tempête, une sécheresse sur ces raisins juteux. C’est toute une année de travail qui est touchée.

Le vin n’est pas aussi simple qu’un bricolage, mais au moins il peut l’être pour vous.

Bonus: vous pouvez même vous vanter de faire votre propre vin à vos amis et le partager avec eux si vous le souhaitez.

I’ve recently started to get interested in Sake. Not necessarily just to ride the wave of Sake love that is hitting Montreal and a few cities around the world right now, but because it’s just so damn good with Asian cuisine. I had my go-to easy pick for when I would endulge in some delicious ramens, but I wanted to get more serious and discover this unique spirit.

Well, the first thing I learned is that there’s a whole bunch of Japanese specific terms that I had never heard before. So, if you’re like me and you want to start exploring the world of Sake here’s all the words you need to know before you get started. Thank me later.

Polishing terms

One of the first steps in sake making is the polishing of the rice. Prior to the actual sake-making process, the rice kernel has to be “polished” — or milled — to remove the outer layer of each grain, exposing its starchy core. The more rice has been polished, the higher the classification level.

Junmai純米

Junmai is the Japanese word meaning “pure rice.” Junmai is brewed using only rice, water, yeast, and koji — there are no other additives, such as sugar or alcohol. Unless a bottle of sake says “junmai”, it will have added brewers alcohol and/or other additives. It’s a popular and searched for category. Additionally, Junmai is a classification of sake that has a milling rate of 30% for each rice grain, meaning that 70% of the exterior grain remains.

Honjozo本醸造

Similar to Junmai in terms of milling, Honjozo is a classification of Sake with a milling rate of at least 30%. The difference is that this type of sake also includes added additives (alcohol, sugars, etc.)

Ginjo  吟醸

A sake with a milling rate of at least 40%, meaning 60% remains after the process. When used alone, this will be made with additives. You may see it combined with the term Junmai too, Junmai Ginjo. That way it indicates the milling grade as well as the pure rice status.

Daigingo大吟醸

Dai Ginjo is a super-premium It requires precise brewing methods and uses rice that has been polished all the way down to at least 50 percent. Daiginjo sakes are often relatively pricey. The term might be used as well combined to Junmai, Junmai Daigingo

Futsushu普通種

Commonly known as “table sake,” Futsushu typically means any non-premium brew. Barely polished, it can be quite harsh.

Genshu

Normally brewers will dilute sake to bring its natural alcohol percentage of 18-20% down to a more manageable 14-6%. The term Genshu is used to label sakes that have not gone through this dilution process, undiluted alcohol in a way.

Shiboritateしぼりたて

This refers to unaged sake. Regular sake is often allowed to age or mature for a quick approximate 6 months. Shibotitate will be fresh out of the batch.

Nigori 濁り

Sake that is unfiltered. Typically cloudy with a sediment that settles at the bottom of the bottle.

Kanpai かんぱい

Translated into “Empty Cup!” or “Cheers!” A very important word indeed.

Koji 麹

Koji refers to the mold culture that is used in the fermentation process. Also called Koji-kin, it’s basically a  mold, the Latin name for which is Aspergillus oryzae, used in sake production to break down starches in steamed rice into fermentable sugars.

Kuraくら

Simply means a sake brewery. Also known as a Sakagura.

Tojiとじ

The master brewer at any given Kura.

Moromi諸味

“The Main Mash.” A vital step in the brewing process of sake where all the ingredients are added together and the fermentation begins.

Shizukuしずく

A time consuming method of pressing sake that involved hanging the Moromi in cloth bags and allowing gravity to separate the fluid from the rest of the mash. Results in very soft and refined brews.

Masuます

A traditional square wooden box used to drink sake. Now these are typically reserved for ceremonial purposes and no longer the preferred receptacle for drinking sake.

Choko or O-Choko ちょこ

Little sake cups. Often in porcelain.

When we talk of perfect pairings, classic pairings, one of the first that comes to mind is the famous Chablis-Oyster combination.

Chablis, the North Burgundian delight, have been grown since the 12th century when Cistercian monks discovered that the river Serein, which flows through the region, creates the perfect climate for growing Chardonnay.

Generally speaking, Chablis is notably affected by the cooler climate of the region. The varietal characteristics of the Chardonnay grape are highly pronounced in Chablis; green apple, citrus, tropical accents, but always with a stunning minerality. The steely, dry, high acidity palate of Chablis is a perfect complement to the purity of an oyster, or a dozen of them.

It is also said that the terroir of Chablis plays a considerable role in the flavor composition of the wine, and by extension, with your oysters. The notorious characteristic of Chablis is its minerality, which is due mainly to the soil. Chablis is famous for its Kimmeridgian clay. During prehistoric times, the Chablis region was part of a vast tropical sea. As the sea retreated, the limestone soil was left full of fossils, of sea shells remnants, which over time, developed into the mineral rich soil.

The classical pairing of oysters and Chablis is as basic as the elements that define them: oysters produced from the mineral-rich sea floors, and grapes produced from the mineral-rich Kimmeridgian soil. So, it’s no surprise that wine from soil made up in part of oyster shells should pair so perfectly with oysters.

Technically, this makes sense. The problem is there’s not just one sort of Chablis, and there’s more than one type of oysters. While the brightness and mineral rich components might be looked for, just try a Grand cru Chablis with an outstanding depth of maturity and this changes everything.

There are five different species of Oysters. Depending on the water they grow in, the combination of plankton & marine influence, it might give them their character. Some oysters are really fat and rich, while others are lean and crisp. Some have flavors of iron while others have much more delicate salinity. Of course, this affects the pairing. Additionally, if you drown you oyster in lemon juice, horseradish, vinegar and hot sauce; you’ve basically killed all possibilities of a great pairing.

Other paring options

Chablis Grand cru Le Clos, La manufacture 2014

An aged and mature Chablis like this one is a very special thing. The petrol-like development aromas, joined with lemon confit and a honeyed touch is only explained by the specific climate of the Grand cru. Yet, we’re far from a basic Chablis.

With the complexity and intensity of the flavors, an oyster might get completely lost. Why not try it with a grilled chicken or even get that fried, oily component of a tempura shrimp.

Chablis Croix aux moines 2016, Isabelle et Denis Pommier

Tasted blind, this would not scream Chablis at all. Candied fruits and exotic aromas makes up the wine character. It’s absolutely delicious and audacious. For me it’s almost reminiscent of a dry cider.

Don’t hesitate to try it with cold cuts, terrine or pates.  A very nice piece of aged ham would do wonder with such a Chablis.

 

Chablis premier cru Montmains 2015, Domaine William Fèvre

More classic in style, This Chablis is extremely fine and precise. Among the fresh, bright and mineral rich approach, there’s a hint of bitterness which brings a whole new world of texture.

Try it with a creamy soft cheese, goat’s or cow’s milk, but with a decent acidity and delicate texture to match.

 

Chablis et Huître? Pas toujours un bon accord…

Lorsque nous parlons d’accords parfaits, d’accords classiques, une des premières combinaisons qui vient en tête est le fameux couple Chablis-Huîtres.

Chablis, le délice nord-bourguignon, est cultivé depuis le 12ème siècle, lorsque des moines cisterciens ont découvert que la rivière Serein, qui traverse la région, crée un climat idéal pour la culture du Chardonnay.

De manière générale, Chablis est particulièrement affecté par le climat plus froid de la région. Les caractéristiques variétales du cépage Chardonnay sont très prononcées à Chablis; pomme verte, agrumes, accents tropicaux, mais toujours avec une minéralité étonnante. L’aspect minéral, sec et à haute acidité du Chablis complète parfaitement la pureté d’une huître, ou d’une douzaine.

On dit également que le terroir de Chablis joue un rôle considérable dans la composition des arômes du vin et, par extension, de vos huîtres. La caractéristique notoire de Chablis est sa minéralité, due principalement au sol. Chablis est célèbre pour son argile kimméridgienne. À l’époque préhistorique, la région de Chablis faisait partie d’une vaste mer tropicale. À mesure que la mer se retirait, le sol calcaire était rempli de fossiles, de restes de coquillages, qui au fil du temps se sont développés pour devenir un sol riche en minéraux.

La combinaison classique d’huîtres et de Chablis est aussi fondamentale que les éléments qui les définissent: des huîtres produites à partir des fonds marins riches en minéraux et des raisins produits à partir du sol riche en minéraux du Kimmeridgian. Il n’est donc pas surprenant que le vin provenant de sol composé en partie de coquilles d’huîtres se marie si bien avec elles.

Techniquement, c’est logique. Le problème est qu’il n’y a pas un seul type de Chablis,et qu’il existe plus d’un type d’huîtres. Alors que la luminosité et les composants riches en minéraux peuvent être recherchés, essayez simplement un Grand cru Chablis avec une profondeur de maturité exceptionnelle et ça change tout.

Il existe cinq espèces d’huîtres différentes. En fonction de l’eau dans laquelle ils grandissent, de la combinaison du plancton et de l’influence marine, cela pourrait leur donner leur caractère. Certaines huîtres sont vraiment grasses et riches, tandis que d’autres sont maigres et croustillantes. Certains ont des arômes de fer tandis que d’autres ont une salinité beaucoup plus fine. Bien sûr, cela affecte le jumelage. De plus, si vous les noyez dans le jus de citron, le raifort, le vinaigre et la sauce piquante, vous avez pratiquement éliminé toutes les possibilités d’un bon accord.

Autres options d’accords

Chablis Grand Cru Le Clos, La Fabrication 2014

Un Chablis âgé et mature comme celui-ci est une chose très spéciale. Les arômes de développement ressemblant à l’essence, associés au citron confit et à une touche miellée, ne s’expliquent que par le climat spécifique du Grand cru. Pourtant, nous sommes loin d’un chablis de base.

Avec la complexité et l’intensité des saveurs, une huître peut être complètement perdue. Pourquoi ne pas l’essayer avec un poulet grillé ou même obtenir le composant huilé et frit d’une crevette tempura.

Chablis Croix aux moines 2016, Isabelle et Denis Pommier

Savouré à l’aveugle, cela ne crierait pas du tout Chablis. Les fruits confits et les arômes exotiques constituent le caractère du vin. C’est absolument délicieux et audacieux. Pour moi, cela fait presque penser à un cidre sec.

N’hésitez pas à l’essayer avec de la charcuterie, de la terrine ou des pâtés. Un très beau morceau de jambon vieilli ferait merveille avec un tel Chablis.

 

Chablis Premier Cru Montmains 2015, William Fèvre

Plus classique, ce chablis est extrêmement fin et précis. Parmi l’approche fraîche, brillante et riche en minéraux, il ya une pointe d’amertume qui apporte un tout nouveau monde de texture.

Essayez-le avec un fromage à pâte molle crémeux, du lait de chèvre ou de chèvre, mais avec une acidité décente et une texture délicate.

Bandol, the little piece of paradise between Marseille and the Mediterranean is one of the only wine regions dedicated to the unstable and wild Mourvèdre. It is one of Provence’s most internationally recognized wine regions. Bandol rosé wines, which account for about a third of total output, are known for their spicy, earthy character and rank among the more distinguished rosés that France has to offer. Even with the amphitheater slopes giving a stunning view over the sea, it is said that Bandol people always looks towards the mountains instead of the sea because their focus is on the terroir. When you get a land with such a unique character as well as an historic production, it’s something to be proud of.

There’s an important temperature range from the altitude which brings freshness, but also maximal maturity. Getting that perfect phenolic maturity is quite easily achieved every year. Mourvèdre will only ripen reliably in a climate as sunny and hot as that which prevails along the Mediterranean coast. However, the temperature ranges as well as the various Mesoclimates affected by the moderating effect of the Mediterranean Sea, makes up for quite a distinctive vintage variation.

 

A story in vintages

From 2004 to 2011	It was truly the Bandol decade. A few years of excellent vintages with no troubles whatsoever.
2012	Extremely rainy
2015	Particular vintage. There was drought but still a lot of humidity in the ground from previous years. It’s atypical but filled with energy and exuberance.
2016	Very limited in Quantity. From a regular 30 hectolitres/hectares it shred to 18.
2018	The opposite of 2015 that was 3 years of rain followed by a year of drought. 2018 is 3 years of drought followed by a year of heavy rain.

The true color of Rosé.

“When I make wines, I never think about color. “says Guillaume Tari, owner of Domaine de la Bégude. The modern rosé are naked in a certain way. They need to be dressed and regain their original color. There’s a lot of prejudice concerning the color of rosé wines, but in the ends, it’s only a color. Most of the very pale rosés get there by filtration or other manipulations. It might be trendy, but it’s not historically accurate.

Mourvèdre

Mourvèdre is known to be a natural anti-oxidant. This means it is not prone to oxidation and holds up pretty well in time. This being said, it’s also quite a troublesome and demanding grape. In Bandol specifically, Mourvèdre strives and evokes the salinity of the terroir. It’s a question of how can we make wines that are so fresh in a place that is so hot. Well, of course altitude has a thing or two to say, but the strong mistral winds also has its way. It is so strong that it may break the vines, even if they’re carefully trained in Gobelet.

Bandol rosé 2018

This wine was just bottled 15 days before the tasting. There was a strong medicinal aroma that dissipated within about 30 minutes. Besides that, the wine is surprisingly fresh and tight. The fruitiness is candied, and there’s a bunch of wildflowers and honeydew melon. The structure is solid, with soft and very light tannins, but an expansive taste.

Bandol rosé 2016

Opened and expressive. The nose is based on citrus fruits, mostly grape fruits, as well as melon and a fresh mineral, salty finish. It shows the Bandol paradox of being a Grand vin, without showing any signs of heat or heaviness.

Bandol rosé 2015

2015 has the same kind of exhuberant intensity, but a fading color in the shade of orange. The nose is extremely developed and mature with aromas of Orange confit, melon skins, a decent bitterness and a resinous hint. The palate is textured and bitter, without being sour. Freshness remains, enough to lift the aromatics and finale.

Bandol Rosé, L’irréductible 2018

The difference between the rosé and the Irréductible is in the percentage of Mourvèdre. While the rosé is about 70 %, the irréductible is almost all Mourvèdre. The idea cam from a test made with old Mourvèdre wines that was vinified as mono varietal and turned out fantastic. We have the wild card of the varietal, with mostly a savory flavor instead of a fruitiness. There’s decent bitterness and a strong umami touch that acts as a flavor enhancer.

Bandol Rosé, L’irréductible 2016

Already turning orange, but with a very brilliant state. The wine is all in nuances, complex, layered and wild.

Bandol Rosé, L’irréductible 2015

Very dark and opulent, It’s a tight and very animal wine. There’s depth and extent from the developped flavors.

Cadet de la bégude 2017

The young vines of the estate are used in this IGP wine. It’s made of a third Cinsault, a third Grenache and a third Mourvèdre. The estate is currently replanting syrah to develop later in the cuvée.

Bandol rouge 2016

The first impression is all on spiciness, mostly pungent red pepper. Then comes the fruitiness stampes by the mark of the sunny and dry vintage. Filled with the mix of freshness and maturity, it has a decent texture, but mostly a gritty mouthful.

Bandol rouge 2015

The difference and unique character of the 2015 vintage is even more present in the red wines than in the rosés. In every way, this 2015 is bold, opulent and filled to the brim with energy. Guillaume Tari said that in many cases, Bégude represents the surname of the wine and the vintage is their first name. Even with this sharp personality, it stays harmonious and direct. An immediate thrill.

Bandol rouge 2012

The 2012 shows a lot of sapidity and tang. It’s very straight with an intense acidity and even a minty aroma that is almost overwhelming. The fruitiness is still very present with a great maturity and a dried character.

Bandol Rouge 2011

This was the culmination of the surprising decade. 2011 was a great vintage based on concentration and depth. Its awakening was long awaited. It took a while before showing its potential and its true color. As of right now, the wine is developing heavily, but still has a brisk acidity and a dried fruit character. It’s like the heathen traits of the Mourvèdre takes up more spaces with age.

Bandol Rouge 2007

The color is still deep, but turns toward a beautiful shade of Orange. It’s ripe in every way and fully grown, fully developed. You can feel the solar vintage. The aromas are mixed up, with little leftover fruit and instead a turn on oxidative side. There’s a peculiar bloody aroma as well as a slight volatile acidity. We could say it’s past its due.

La Brûlade 2015

La brûlade is the result of a small plateau, right in the middle of the property, which is heated by the sun constantly and permanently swept by the strong winds. The vines are planted on unique red soil, the bright red clay that is so unique to Bandol and part of its character. The wine has an intense style, in the extreme. Its balance is surprisingly tailored to its pattern. There’s a strong earthy hint as well as a mix of empyreumatic and floral tones. This special plot expresses its identity loud & clear.

Always associated with easy-peazy, low alcohol and a slight fizz, Vinho Verde is getting out of its old habits. It might very well be what you need right now. While it isn’t completely turning around, the region is getting more recognized and precise in term of identity and quality, as does many regions in the world right now. Instead of an accessible wine, you may think of it as the best of what the cooler, unique, northern region of Portugal has to offer.

The thing is, Vinho Verde is not just a “summer” wine, it’s a region that has had its ups and downs, that has a rich winemaking history dating back to 2000 years ago and that was the first wine exported towards European markets. I like the thought of re-discovering a forgotten region, because it’s gone through so many changes. The fizz has gone, the blends are out and single varietals are in. Producers are doing everything they can to get out of stereotypes without losing their identity, and it’s truly a success. Nowadays, even the alcohol levels are going slightly up and we can even find oak ageing in some cases. Anselmo Mendes was one of the pioneer in the development of this new style and a big help towards research and understanding in the region.

Vinho Verde vs Porto

The region of Vinho Verde is quite expansive, but it is in fact surrounding the beautiful and extremely popular city of Porto. While the city is closely, historically linked to the production of port wines, the first vines you see outside the city walls are in fact Vinho Verde. The city itself rest in the vast Ave sub-region, known for its maritime influence on Loureiro & blends. Also, if you follow the Douro, or the newly opened and ideal A4 highway, you’ll end up passing across Sousa, Amarante and Baião. The latter, Baião sub-region is home to the best example of Avesso. This grape has had a huge increase in Popularity with winemakers and consumers. It’s aromatic and complex nature makes it very versatile and interesting as a monovarietal.

Of course, the most recognized of the 9 sub-regions, Monção e Melgaço, home of the Alvarinho grape is way up north, but that’s the beauty of the region. The diversity in terms of styles, climates, soils and even the 47 local authorized grapes makes it very versatile. With the new wave of drier, varietal-labeled Vinho Verde building up the region’s reputation, it left some places to experimentation. Some varietals are making a comeback. For example, Batoca, a forgotten grape is now getting replanted. Quinta Santa Cristina is also making a 100% Batoca. Caíño, that was mistaken for a long time as Alvarinho is also getting some attention. In addition, some producers are also experimenting with barrel ageing, skin contact, lees stirring/ageing and even biodynamic. The idea is to assure the phenolic compounds are integrated and give added body, structure, complexity and intensity.

This is really an exciting time for the region. So, next time you try a Vinho Verde wine, just take the time to look at it and taste it properly. I know, it’s the kind of bottle that is easily emptied, but if you can, look at the grapes, the provenance, the winemaking method, you might get pleasantly surprised.

Try some!

Astronauta Arinto Vinho Verde 2018

The concept of Astronaut Wines and the idea of Anhibal Couthino, Portuguese Oenologist, is to put forward emblematic grape varietals of different regions, representing not only the place it comes from, but the actual winemaking culture of a region. This Arinto based wine is crispy and light with a bright acidity and minerality. Typical, classic, well-done.

A&D Wines Espinhosos 2017

Located in the sub-region of Baião, on top of the hill, overlooking the valley with a clear distinction between the Douro and the Vinho Verde, A&D wines is one hell of a gorgeous estate. Espinhosos is a blend of Avesso and chardonnay. It has a deeper color. It’s also floral but also with a lovely wild honey aroma. The acidity is screeching but rounded by the chardonnay in the blend. It’s very slightly carbonated as the style of A&D wines does not put a priority on bubbles.

Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Alvarinho 2017

Renowned and leading producer of the Minho region, Anselmo Mendes’ name is closely linked to the Alvarhino variety, the region’s hype and recent innovations. With his extensive research on local grapes, soils, vine’s growth and winemaking processes, he’s been adding his creator’s touch to wines for more than 20 years now. Everything’s about acidity in this wine. It starts with a strong sour attack that softens up into a lively finish.

 

Le Vinho Verde n’est plus ce qu’il était – Il doit être réexaminé

Toujours associé à des boissons faciles à manger, à faible teneur en alcool et à un léger pétillement, le  Verde se défait de ses vieilles habitudes. C’est probablement ce dont vous avez besoin maintenant. Bien que la situation ne soit pas complètement renversée, la région devient plus reconnue et plus précise sur le plan de l’identité et de la qualité, tout comme de nombreuses régions dans le monde à l’heure actuelle. Au lieu d’un vin accessible, vous pouvez penser qu’il s’agit du meilleur de ce que la région nordique du Portugal, plus fraîche et unique, peut offrir.

Le fait est que le Vinho Verde n’est pas simplement un vin «d’été», c’est une région qui a connu des hauts et des bas, qui a une riche histoire viticole remontant à 2000 ans et qui a été  le premier vin exporté vers les marchés européens.  J’aime l’idée de redécouvrir une région oubliée, subissant tant de changements. Le petit pétillement a disparu, les assemblages sont terminés et les monocépages sont de vigueur. Les producteurs font tout leur possible pour sortir des stéréotypes sans perdre leur identité, et c’est vraiment un succès. De nos jours, même les niveaux d’alcool augmentent légèrement et on peut trouver de la barrique dans certains cas. Anselmo Mendes a été l’un des pionniers dans le développement de ce nouveau style et une aide précieuse pour la recherche et la compréhension dans la région.

Vinho Verde vs Porto

La région de Vinho Verde est assez vaste, mais elle entoure en fait la belle et extrêmement populaire ville de Porto. Alors que la ville est étroitement liée historiquement à la production de Porto, les premières vignes que vous voyez en dehors des murs de la ville sont en fait du Vinho Verde. La ville elle-même est située dans la vaste sous-région d’Ave, connue pour son influence maritime sur le Loureiro et ses assemblages. De plus, si vous suivez le Douro ou l’autoroute A4 idéale et nouvellement ouverte, vous finirez par passer par Sousa, Amarante et Baião. Cette dernière, la sous-région de Baião, abrite le meilleur exemple d’Avesso. Ce cépage a connu une augmentation de popularité considérable auprès des viticulteurs et des consommateurs. Sa nature aromatique et complexe le rend très polyvalent et intéressant comme monocépage.

Bien sûr, la plus connue des 9 sous-régions, Monção e Melgaço, berceau du cépage Alvarinho, se situe tout au nord, mais c’est la beauté de la région. La diversité de styles, de climat, de sols et même des 47 cépages locaux autorisés la rendent très polyvalente. Avec la nouvelle vague de Vinho Verde, plus vari, qui a construit la réputation de la région, il y a place à l’expérimentation. Certains cépages font leur grand retour. Par exemple, le Batoca, un raisin oublié est en train d’être replanter. Quinta Santa Cristina réalise même un vin 100% Batoca. Caíño, qui a longtemps été confondu avec l’Alvarinho attire également l’attention. En outre, certains producteurs expérimentent le vieillissement en fûts, le contact avec les lies, bâtonnage et même la biodynamie. L’idée est de s’assurer que les composés phénoliques sont intégrés et apportent corps, structure, complexité et intensité supplémentaires.

C’est vraiment un moment excitant pour la région. Alors, la prochaine fois que vous essayerez un vin du Vinho Verde, prenez juste le temps de le regarder et de le déguster correctement. Je sais que c’est le genre de bouteille qui se vide facilement, mais si vous pouvez regarder les cépages, la provenance, la méthode de vinification, vous pourriez être agréablement surpris.

 

À essayer!

Astronauta Arinto Vinho Verde 2018

Le concept des vins astronautes et celui d’Anhibal Couthino, Å“nologue portugais, consistent à proposer des cépages emblématiques de différentes régions, représentant non seulement l’endroit d’où ils proviennent, mais aussi la culture viticole d’une région. Ce  vin à base d’Arinto est croquant et léger, avec une acidité et une minéralité éclatante. Typique, classique, bien fait.

A & D Vins Espinhosos 2017

Situé dans la sous-région de Baião, au sommet de la colline, surplombant la vallée avec une nette distinction entre le Douro et le Vinho Verde, les vins A & D viennent d’un domaine magnifique. Espinhosos est un mélange d’Avesso et de Chardonnay. Il a une couleur plus profonde. C’est aussi floral mais avec de beaux arômes de miel sauvage. L’acidité est criarde mais arrondie par le chardonnay dans l’assemblage. Il est très légèrement gazéifié car le style des vins A & D ne privilégie pas les bulles.

Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Alvarinho 2017

Célèbre et premier producteur de la région du Minho, le nom d’Anselmo Mendes est étroitement lié à la variété Alvarhino, au battage publicitaire de la région et aux innovations récentes. Grâce à ses recherches approfondies sur les raisins locaux, les sols, la croissance de la vigne et les processus de vinification, il ajoute sa touche de créateur aux vins depuis plus de 20 ans. Tout est question d’acidité dans ce vin. Cela commence par une forte attaque qui se s’adoucit tranquillement  pour donner une finale vive.

Real, living proof of the recent touristic development of Porto, or in that case I should say Gaia. Both cities, face to face, are kind of the same. They’re only separated by a bridge, or a few bridges, but the style and ambiance is completely different.

Vila Nova de Gaia was, and still is the home of historic Port Lodges. Every inch of it is filled with links to the Port industry. It’s no surprises that most of the restaurant and hotels are under the name of Port Houses. Sandeman is one of the most popular place to visit. The huge terrace up front with delicious Port cocktails is one of the main reason, but also the complete offer they have. The House of SAndeman is many things. There’s the cellar, the terrace, the hostel & suites and the George restaurant.

The Hostel & Suites

In the Iconic Building of Sandeman, with one of the best view over the Douro River and the Ponte Luis, The house of Sandeman is an alternative and kind of free-spirited place to stay. Right in the middle of the action, it would be hard to be closer than that. There’s various options for the guest from superior rooms with perfect view, cosy smaller rooms with amazing Sandeman Artworks, or there’s the social side. You can book a place in dorms with beds with a custom framing inspired by the Port wine barrels. The Lodge is offering all kind of happening for the guests to join and meet: breakfast, afternoon tea and Cookie or Happy hour.

The George

For something more high-end, you need to book a table at the George restaurant. Same Location within the historic house of Sandeman along the riverside, but with an amazing offer of typical flavours from the north of Portugal paired with the best Portuguese wines from all around the Country.

I’d strongly recommend :

TOMATE & CIA  Tomato salad with breaded goat cheese.

LOMBO DE ATUM EM PÃO DE ALFARROBA Tuna loin steak on carob bread, french fries and green salad.

VITELA BT  Low temperature veal with broth rice.